Italian Winemaker Alessandro Cellai Visits Hi-Time

by Gary Faust
 
It was quite an honor to welcome Italian winemaker, Alessandro Cellai to Hi Time Wine Cellars. He is quite versatile and talented, producing wine from two estates with two very different terroirs.

From Sicily, the Feudi del Pisciotto estate showcases some of the island’s native varietals as well as some “international varietals.” Cellai believes three indigenous grapes from Sicily show the character of the island and what is possible in this unique micro-climate. The Grillo, Nero d'Avola and Frappato are excellent examples of wine with true Sicilian character.

Feudi del Pisciotto includes what is probably the greatest intact example of a gravity-fed winery. Incredibly, this was used by the ancient Romans and Greeks who knew a thing or two about making wine. Photos of the interior of this historic building are amazing. Today, many winemakers are building gravity-fed winemaking facilities, an acknowledgement that the process is still very relevant and results in gentle and efficient handling of their grapes and wine.

The bottles of Feudi del Pisciotto have labels featuring the artwork of prominent Italian designers including Versace and Valentino. The artists agreed to allow use of their art as a portion of the sales go toward the renovation and restoration of historic Sicilian art and culture. In tasting through the lineup, we found the wines were expressive, delicious and surprisingly affordable. The designer series wines are shown on the right side of the photo included in this blog (at the top of the page).

We also tasted the Rocca Di Frassinello wines from the appellation of Maremma in Tuscany. Rocca Di Frassinello is a unique joint venture of two incredible producers coming together to craft wine in the rolling hills of Tuscany. The parties involved are Castellare di Castellina from Chianti and the legendary Bordeaux producer Lafite-Rothschild. Their Rocca di Frassinello project couples Castellare’s experience in growing Sangiovese with Lafite’s experience growing classic French varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Rocca Di Frassinello showcases a stunning winery, most of which is built underground. The modern looking facility contains the largest barrel room in the world. The impressive structure is often host to recitals and performances.

The character of the wine is different than many other expressions of Tuscany such as Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and Nobile Di Montepulciano. These Super Tuscans feature Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. They are rich, full-bodied wines which give great pleasure!

The Poggio alla Guardia is an over-achiever, which was our Wine of the Month 2 last July. The 2012 is even better than the 2011 so we will be bringing it into the store in a big way. All the wines from this winery were full-bodied with rich, ripe fruit and smooth tannins.

What a treat it was to spend time with such a talented winemaker. Alessandro was very generous with his time and knowledge. His wines from two very different regions share one common trait- they’re fantastic!

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO

by Gary Faust

Patty Quick and I were fortunate to attend the world premiere tasting of the 2011 single vineyard “crus” of the great Barbaresco producer, Produttori del Barbaresco. Produttori is well known for their excellent and affordable Barbaresco, which is a blend of the fruit from their different vineyards. Over the years, they have garnered attention for their Crus, which are smaller in production and show considerable differences.

Produttori del Barbaresco was founded in 1958 by a priest in the village of Barbaresco who believed the only way the farmers could survive was by joining together. Initially, 19 farmers working small plots of land formed the cooperative. The group has now grown to 54 members and 250 acres of Nebbiolo vineyards in Barbaresco. Each member has full control of their vineyard and collectively they have raised the stature of the appellation.




Many years of working the land and making wine led them to appreciate differences inherent in each of the vineyards. They recognized differing soils, sun exposure and micro-climates produced wines with significant differences. Think of a large family with 9 children. There are definitely familial traits, but each has their own unique personality. This essentially is the concept of the single crus which Produttori began bottling in 1967. Since then, each has achieved DOCG status which is the highest recognition under Italian appellation law.

We learned that each farmer brings their harvest to town where the grapes are carefully inspected and the farmers are paid according to the quality of the grapes as opposed to the yield. This encourages the farmers to focus on quality, not quantity. Each bottle is numbered and the farmers who provided grapes for each cru are listed on their respective bottles. This is pretty cool and shows the importance given to the grapes themselves. It was a treat to try each of the wines and learn more about their differences.

It was great to taste through the lineup and discover the differences amongst the each of the crus. Honestly, they were all delicious and we are fortunate to have several of the bottlings available at the store. Below are some of our observations as well as reviews of the wines we brought into the store.

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 "PAJE" $49.98 #303196

"Paje" is a small vineyard located in a sloped amphitheater with limestone soils. The wines here are known for having a combination of pronounced tannins and finesse and elegance that come together with a bit of cellaring.

ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 95 POINTS - "One of the highlights in this range, the 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is also one of the most classic of these 2011 Riservas. Beams of underlying acidity and minerality give the flavors considerable thrust and brightness. Sweet mentholated notes wrap around a core of plush, red-fleshed plum and pomegranate fruit, leading to a brisk, refreshing finish. What is left to say? The 2011 Pajè is absolutely gorgeous. It's as simple as that. Pajè is one of the cooler micro-climates the Produttori work with, and that was a help in 2011."

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 "ASILI" $49.98 #303192

Wines produced from “Asili” are prized for their elegance, charm and overall finesse. They are slightly lighter in color and express their terroir with great personality as they age. The sweet lifted fruit and silkiness of the wine make this really irresistible.

ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 95 POINTS - "The 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is one of the most refined wines in this range. Here the fruit shows more distinctly red-toned notes, with plenty of Asili creaminess, silkiness and overall texture, not to mention considerable density. There is plenty of Asili sexiness and radiance, but at the same time, there is also more tannin and overall brightness than I expected. Not that those things are bad. Far from it. I imagine the 2011 will reward readers with many years of exceptional drinking. This is one of the most polished wines in the range of 2011 Riservas. Then again, it's Asili."

Wines produced from “Asili” are prized for their elegance, charm and overall finesse. They are slightly lighter in color and express their terroir with great personality as they age. The sweet lifted fruit and silkiness of the wine make this really irresistible.

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 "OVELLO" $49.98 #303194

Ovello is the northernmost vineyard in the village of Barbaresco and is influenced by the nearby Tanaro River. The calcareous soils are rich in clay. The clay and cool microclimate imparts these wines with rich fruit, fresh aromas and flavors along with moderated tannins. Skilled vineyard work is the key here.

ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 94+ POINTS - "The 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello, from one of the coolest zones in Barbaresco, is superb. Here it is the wine's precision and energy - both hard to come by in 2011 - that really stand out. Pine, mint, chalk, bright red berries, blood orange and white pepper are some of the signatures in a brilliant, finely-cut Barbaresco that captures the best of both the vintage and this site. Don't miss it!"

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 "RABAJA" $49.98 #302432

The Rabajà vineyard lies at the conjunction of two main ridges that form the Barbaresco village. The combination of two soils and its warm southwest exposure give Rabajà its incredible complexity, darker fruit profile and richness.

ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 95+ POINTS - "The 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is quite backward today, with intense, salivating tannins that cut through the fruit. The trademark Rabajà balsamic flavor profile is there, with notable darkness and plenty of structure that add complexity to a core of crystalline fruit. Energetic and powerful, with searing tannin and exceptional balance, the Rabajà is going to require considerable patience. The only question is how much."

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 MONTEFICO $49.98 #303197
ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 95 POINTS - "The 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is another of the highlights in this range from the Produttori. Imagine the precision of Ovello, but with slightly darker fruit and more density and power through the middle. That's the Montefico. A regal, towering Barbaresco, the Montefico should provide thrilling drinking for the next several decades. A rush of dark cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and tobacco add nuance on the powerful, structured finish."

Hi-Time Wine Cellars presents...

Tuscany Under The Stars
A Night of Tuscan Wines with Producers

At

The Pelican Courtyard
124 Tustin Ave, Newport Beach, CA 92663

Wednesday, May 4th • 6:30 to 9 p.m.

Taste over 20 wines with six producers
Selvapiana • Badia a Coltibuono • Poliziano
Casanova di Neri • Aia Vecchia • Adami

Tray Passed Tuscan Bites
catered by Mark McDonald of Old Vine Café, Costa Mesa

Entertainment Provided by Haddy Music
$40 per person
Reservations Required By Phone (949.650.8463) or Online

For more info please go to hitimewine.net • Dress Code Business Casual

Italy: Terredora di Paolo

by Gary Faust

The wines of Campania are not always on the radar for wine drinkers, but they should be. Wines from this region are distinctive and the best examples focus on varietals indigenous to the area. Great examples can be found in the wines of Terredora di Paolo. They have become a staple at Hi-Time and demonstrate the heights which wines from Southern Italy can achieve. No discussion of wines from Campania is complete without recognizing the important contributions of the Mastroberardino family.

We recently had the opportunity to sit down with Daniela Mastroberardino to discuss and enjoy the wines of Terredora di Paolo. Chatting over a leisurely lunch, Daniela said Terredora di Paolo focused on rediscovering and restoring Campania’s ancient and native varietals such as Aglianico, Fiano, Greco and Piedrosso. These varietals are key players that have brought about Campania’s wine renaissance and have inspired a qualitative revolution.

Campania is a beautiful region in southern Italy known for its famous cities of Naples and Sorrento, as well as the Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri. Nestled inland, the Mastroberardino family’s vineyards have taken these wonderful indigenous grapes and elevated them into wine worthy of seeking out.

The wines exhibit a distinctive personality due to the unique microclimate. The climate is Mediterranean along the coast, but becomes more continental in the interior, especially in the hilly and mountainous area as the altitude increases. The days are sunny, which aids in ripening the grapes while the cool nights help maintain acidity. The altitude, volcanic soil and climate yields wines that are intense yet elegant with complex bouquets.

As we progressed through lunch, it became apparent that the wines of Terredora di Paolo are distinctive, food friendly wines. They definitely paired well with the cuisine of Cucina Enoteca. If you have not dined at their Fashion Island or Irvine Spectrum restaurant, you owe it to yourself to do so. The food is fantastic and very flavorful.

The Fiano di Avellino Campo Re is a white wine that is so versatile, going beautifully with the burrata and prosciutto as well as the grilled octopus. Located on the slopes of Mt. Vesuvius near Naples, the vineyard name “Campo Re” means royal vineyard and it’s arguably the most famous single site in Campania for the famed DOCGs of Taurasi and Fiano di Avellino. The Campo Re is a complex and compelling wine.

Next we tried wines made with the Aglianico grape. Aglianico is the primary grape of Southern Italy’s most famous wine region, Taurasi, and hails from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius outside of Naples. Sometimes referred to as the “Barolo of the South,” it is the latest ripening grape variety in Italy and often shows significant structure. Terredora’s Taurasi are great wines with impressive stature and ageability. These wines display a fantastic spicy and smoky volcanic minerality.

The Aglianico Campania IGT proved to be a delicious accompaniment to the meat-based dishes which were served. This is an accessible, crowd-pleasing version of Aglianico, which is not over-extracted and is made to be approachable upon release. It has a terrific sense of place and you really know you are drinking wine from the South of Italy.

The short rib with cremini mushrooms over pappardelle pasta was fantastic with the 2010 Taurasi. This also went well with other bold dishes such as the chef’s ragu over creamy mascarpone polenta and the lamb brasato. This wine could be considered the big brother of the previous wine, showcasing more power, breadth and depth.

The Lacryma Christi is a lesser known wine endowed with power and character. Made of 100% Piedrosso, ancient legend has it that God cried as he found a corner of heaven stolen by Lucifer. His tears fell near the Gulf of Naples and the vines that make comprise Lacryma Christi appeared. This wine had good structure and complexity and also paired well with the meat dishes we enjoyed at Cucina Enoteca.

Daniela Mastroberardino’s passion and commitment are evident and she is a great ambassador for Campania and Southern Italy as a whole. That passion is clearly reflected in the delicious wines she and her family craft. These wines are distinctive, worth seeking out and should definitely be on your radar.

 

TERREDORA 2011 FIANO DI AVELINO "CAMPO RE" $31.95 [302655]
This special single vineyard bottling shows creamy lemon-chiffon fruit with acacia and a mellow citrusy edge, like mandarin orange and bergamot. Elements of honey, nutmeg spice and toasty oak lend this Fiano a depth that reminds us of a fine white Burgundy. There is also plenty of volcanic minerality laced throughout the mid-palate sure to please the terroir hunters and purists.

TERREDORA 2012 AGLIANICO $12.95 [301006]
JAMES SUCKLING 93 POINTS - "A full-bodied red with dried-plum and berry aromas and flavors. Full body, velvety tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Read More...A Taurasi with balance and suppleness. Shows the soul of Campania. Drink now."

TERREDORA DIPAOLO 2010 TAURASI $26.98 [303406]
Intense ruby in color with garnet reflections. The nose is complex with aromas of black cherry, violet, spice, tar, tobacco and mineral notes. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and round with velvety tannins. Black cherry, plum, spice and smoky minerality linger on the long, flavorful finish. This wine will age well and is approachable with decanting.

TERREDORA 2011 LACRYMA CHRISTI ROSSO 100% PIEDROSSO $18.95 [302369]
 100% Piedrosso and planted from ancient vines planted into the sides of dormant volcano Vesuvio it is aged 8 months in French barrels. It has a dark ruby color with a very ripe berry, cherry and liquorice aromas and flavors. Rounded with loads of spicy black pepper character, medium-full bodied with chewy tannins and a long finish. Great pairings would be spicy roast dishes of roast meats, pork, lamb and cheeses.

Carlo Mondavi, Continuum, visits Hi-Time

Big thanks to Carlo Mondavi for stopping by the cellar and tasting us on the soon-to-be-released (next week!) 2013 Continuum... Our California wine buyer Dan Williams says this release was '...hands down one of the best two or three wines I tasted on my recent Napa trip." As he was there for the Premiere Napa Valley auction, he was tasting top shelf wines only. And today? An easy two thumbs up. Don't miss this wine!

Wine Bar: This Weekend

Tonight (Thursday, 3/24) at the winebar it's all about 2011 Barolo!  We will taste a fantastic lineup of classic, classy Italian wines... $35, 4:30-8:30 p.m.

Friday night (3/25) we are tasting new releases from France and it will be another excellent night for wine tasting! $25, 4:30-8:30 p.m.

We don't have the lineup yet but Saturday's tasting (Spring Paella Party with Spanish Wines) looks to be another great time at Hi-Time! ($30, 2-8:30 p.m.).

Quick Sips: Produttori Del Barbaresco

by Gary Faust

Gary, alongside our Italian wine buyer Patty Quick, had a chance to try some excellent Italian wines: "Tasting the 2011 single vineyard crus from Produttori Del Barbaresco. All wines Vinified in the same manner, but each has its own personality due to soil, aspect, etc."

French Wine - New Releases!

Freshies!  New wines in the French wine category...click on the photograph to get a 'close-up' view.  We will be telling you more about some of these shortly or look for them on our website... cheers!

Winemakers Visit Hi-Time Wine Cellars

Gary Faust reports: Winemakers David Duband from Burgundy and Jean-Louis Dutraive of Domaine de La Grand'Cour from Beaujolais, visited Hi-Time from France (...and lucky for us, they brought some of their wines with them! -ed.).

Wine of the Month 2: A Fantastic Sicilian Red

Vivera Terre Siciliane Terra dei Sogni 2012 $16.95 [301144]
by Tobin Sharp

"Corleone. My Corleone, green vineyards and hot sun. There is no other place in the world with this beauty. A beauty somehow misunderstood and hidden, that my husband and I want to express through the wine we make, in an embrace that can tell a different story of Sicily, through the language of its flavor and its smells." -Armida Vivera

Terra dei Sogni is a young wine, fresh and natural, a bold blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from a vineyard of clay in Corleone, wedded to the mineral and fruity Nerello Cappuccio variety from Martinella, on the Etna. Terra dei Sogni is the land from which the wine is born: dreamt, grown and made to excite emotions and enchantment.

We knew when we tasted it that it was a clear winner for the Wine of the Month 2 slot. The nose was sexy, sultry and sweet with shades of berries and plums, smoky mineral and grilled bacon, incense, charcuterie and dark florals. The palate is lush with a viscous mouthfeel and tons of fruit flavors, echoing the nose: sweet berries, red plums, sun-dried cherries. Vivid minerality and a touch of red licorice are uplifted by brisk acidity and subtle tannins. Lovely in Springtime, perfect for Summer.

WINE SPECTATOR 90 POINTS: "Finely balanced, this medium- to full-bodied red integrates supple tannins, with a lovely range of ripe black currant and mulberry fruit, accented by tarry mineral, grilled herb, licorice drop and mocha hints that linger on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Nerello Cappuccio. Drink now through 2025. 2,667 cases made."

Claudio Fenocchio Visits Hi-Time

"Claudio Fenocchio and his fantastic wines with Italian wine buyer, Patty Quick. The 2011 Bussia Barolo is deep, approachable and in stock at HT. The '13 Langhe Freisa and '13 Barbera Superiore will be in next week."
-Gary Faust

Michele & Giacomo Satta at Onotria Restaurant 2.25.16

Our own Gary Faust was at Onotria with Michele and Giacomo Satta (pictured) on Thursday, February 25. Wines of elegance and balance from Bolgheri, Italy, soon to be available at Hi-Time.

Featured wines:
"Costa di Giulia" 2014 (65% Vermentino, 35% Sauv Blanc)
Bolgheri Rosso 2013 (30% Cab Sauv, 30% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, 10% Syrah, 10% Teroldego)
"Piastraia" 2011 (25% Merlot, 25% Cab Sauv, 25% Syrah, 25% Sangiovese)
"Il Cavaliere" 2008 (100% Sangiovese)
"I Castagni" (70% Cab Sauv, 20% Syrah, 10% Teroldego)
The lineup was stellar and Gary's standouts for the
night were the Bolgheri Rosso and "Il Cavaliere".




Menu:
1st. White Tiger Shrimp in Oregano Garlic EVOO over Cannellini Beans
2nd. Carpaccio of Bresaola with Pecorino Tartufato, Arugula, EVOO
3rd. Orichette Pasta oven baked with Buffalo Mozzarella and Pacchino Tomato Sauce
4th. Tagliata of Beef Florentine Style accompanied by Truffled Mashed Potatoes, Drizzled with Agliata
5th. Pecorino Sationato, Aged Pecorino Cheese and Roasted Almonds

Super Tuscan Sale on a 92 Point Wine!

by Gary Faust

This is a smokin’ deal from Baracchi, the fantastic Tuscan producer we first brought into the store two years ago.  Baracchi makes wines that are just plain delicious and this wine definitely fits that bill.  Even better, the distributor is making room for the new vintage and was motivated to move this wine.  This wine is easily one of the best deals in the store right now and we are thrilled to offer it at a huge discount.  Ardito is one of Baracchi’s upscale bottlings and it really shows in this wine’s complexity.
 
This is a stunning blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Syrah.  It comes together beautifully and tastes like a hypothetical marriage of California Cabernet and Syrah from the Northern Rhone.  Like any great marriage, the sum is greater than the parts.  The Ardito combines the generous fruit and structure Cabernet is known for with the meaty savoriness one often finds in Syrah.

 

Deep ruby with purple highlights and staining of the tears.  On the nose, violet florals are followed by notes of currants, blackberries, vanilla, earth and meat.  On the palate, the wine is dry and full-bodied with moderate, ripe tannins.  The flavors speak of the grapes themselves showcasing crème de cassis, black cherry, blackberry and anise from the Cabernet and that special meaty savoriness and slight spice that Syrah can bring.  This wine is bold, delicious and ready to drink.  It begs for a nice steak, but also drinks so very well on its own.

BARACCHI 2010 ARDITO SUPER TUSCAN

JAMES SUCKLING 92 POINTS -“Aromas of almonds, orange, and blackberries. Full body, with velvety tannins and a flavorful finish. A little chewy with slightly dried tannins but will soften with a year or two of bottle age. Delicious already. A blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Try in 2015.”

SALE $29.95 Reg. Price $54.95 750ml [301763] Click HERE to purchase

La Rioja Alta: High Scoring Exceptional Values

High Scoring Exceptional Values from La Rioja Alta!

La Rioja Alta continues to impress! This outstanding producer is one of our favorites, consistently crafting wines of world class quality. These Tempranillo-based wines are made in the traditional Riojan manner, first aged in oak then in bottle within La Rioja Alta's cellar. They are not released until the winery deems them ready to drink. This careful aging is one of the things that gives Rioja its unique character and these wines have a wonderfully complex bouquet, rich flavors and a seductively smooth texture. Both offer gorgeous red fruit with sweet spices and an enticing savory quality that allows them to pair beautifully with a variety of foods.  The wines of Rioja Alta offer tremendous value with a quality-to-price ratio that’s hard to beat and both received outstanding scores from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. The Vina Ardanza was awarded 94 Points with the Advocate calling it, "A great value for the money." The amazing Gran Reserva 904 was awarded 96 points in the glowing review which stated the wine is, "Balanced, subtle, truly elegant," and proclaimed it "A great classic" and a "bargain." These are extremely complex wines, which are approaching the peak of drinkability where they will remain for the next ten years or so. They represent an exceptional value in the wine market today.   At this price and quality, they should not to be missed!

The Joy of Giorgio Pelissero

by Gary Faust

Giorgio Pelissero (seen above with Italian Wine Buyer Patty Quick) came to the store recently with a bag full of wine and a friendly smile. It’s funny how sometimes the personality of a winemaker or owner really shines through and seems to infuse the wine itself with that personality. Tasting through Giorgio’s Dolcettos, Barberas and Barbarescos, one can’t help but feel the warmth and generosity transmitted to the glass. We enjoyed Giorgio’s visit and will continue to enjoy his wines in our store.

Quick Sips: Gaja!

On Tuesday we were fortunate to taste the amazing wines of the renowned Italian producer, Gaja!  Although primarily known for his iconic Barbarescos, we enjoyed trying the Brunello and Tuscan wines as well.  They were tasty!  Playing the role of photo-bomber, the Il Poggione Brunello snuck in and is pictured third from left.

-Gary Faust

From Mount Etna, Italy: Cantina Benanti

by Gary Faust

Last month, Salvino Benanti visited Hi-Time to share his wines and talk about his passion for the wines of Mount Etna. The Benanti family has been growing grapes and caring for some of the island's oldest vines since the late 1890s. They sold their grapes for decades until Salvino’s father, Giuseppe, decided to indulge his passion and began making wine in 1988. At the time, most of the wine produced in Sicily was sold in bulk and was not of very high quality. Mr. Benanti believed in the potential of the region and knew the combination of minerality and climate from Mount Etna made the wines capable of greatness. He risked his own money, focused on indigenous grapes from the island and strove to increase the quality of wines produced there.

He believed he could make high quality, ageable, food-friendly wines, which could compete favorably with other wines of the world. Over the years, his vision has come to fruition. The white and red wines made by Benanti display a combination of character and elegance. In time, others from Etna have followed Giuseppe’s lead and established the reputation of Etna as one capable of producing excellent wines.

After Giuseppe passed, Salvino and his brother Antonio carried on, maintaining the traditional style while also instilling a more disciplined approach to ensure consistency. Salvino sees himself as an ambassador for Benanti, but also of Etna- so convinced is he of the quality.

Sicily is a land of extremes, with snow visible on the Mount Etna for 8-9 months out of the year while the sun shines on the coast near the azure waters. The slopes of Etna provide ideal conditions for grape growing. The days are sunny and warm and the nights are cool, creating diurnal temperature swings, which enable grapes to ripen slowly and retain aromatics and acidity. 

Over the years, the Benanti family has acquired several plots of land within the Etna DOC. Some of these parcels include old ungrafted vines, which have survived the scourge of phylloxera. The island’s unique volcanic soil and dryness have protected these vines and Etna can boast some of Europe's oldest vines. These old vines have very low yields with excellent concentration of flavors.

The oldest vineyard sits at the top of a hill overlooking the winery and contains vines which are more than 100 years old. These Carricante and Nerello Mascalese vines sit at about 450 meters of altitude on the southeast slopes of the volcano. This exposure means they tend to be warmer than the rest of Etna, leading Benanti to generally be the first to harvest grapes on the mountain each year. Most of the winery's vines are head-trained.
The grapes are fermented with native yeasts in steel tanks (for the whites) or large old oak vats (for the reds), then transferred to old oak barrels of varying sizes for aging. Benanti uses mostly two- and three-year-old French oak barrels. Despite the winery's small size, they are among the best known of Etna's producers thanks to being some of the earliest pioneers in Etna's relatively short modern history of wine production. The fact that they make great wine might also have something to do with it. Benanti was awarded Winery of the Year by leading Italian Wine Guide Gambero Rosso in 2007 and by Wine & Spirits Magazine in 2012.

We tasted through several wines with Salvino and found the Benanti wines to be delicious. The 2004 Serra della Contessa is definitely in a sweet spot in its perfect stage of evolution.

BENANTI 2004 SERRA DELLA CONTESSA $49.95 #301470
We are spellbound by the complexity of this perfectly aged wine from the historic Benanti family estate. This cuvee is composed primarily of Nerello Mascalese with a small amount of Nerello Cappuccio. Think of a hypothetical cross of Burgundian Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, which is vibrant and fresh at 11 years of age. As Salvino says, “These are elegant wines for elegant food and elegant people.” We agree wholeheartedly and know our customers will enjoy this tremendous food wine, which pairs exceptionally well with lamb, pork dishes, sausage or even pizza!

ROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS - "Benanti's 2004 Serra della Contessa is a showstopper. This blend of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio is made from 100-year old vines, many of which date to pre-phylloxera times. The wine is fermented in oak vats, then racked into French oak barrels for aging. It reveals notable intensity and purity in its expressive layers of ripe fruit, leather, minerals, menthol, licorice and smoke. Supple, finessed tannins frame the gorgeous finish. Today the wine is quite primary but in time it will likely develop into an ethereal beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016."

BENANTI 2010 PIETRAMARINA BIANCO SUPERIORE $46.98 #301366
Benanti allows PIETRAMARINA BIANCO SUPERIORE to rest on the lees after fermentation, imparting more complexity and fuller body. In a word, this wine was amazing, complex and capable of aging. This is an Italian white wine for lovers of white burgundy.

WINE ENTHUSIAST 95 POINTS - "This stunning, full-bodied wine is in the running as one of the best white wines in Italy. It’s perfumed with acacia flower, Spanish broom, beeswax, flint and tree fruit. The delicious palate delivers green apple, Anjou pear and mineral sensations of mesmerizing depth. It will develop even more complexity over time. Drink through 2025”



BENANTI 2010 ROVITTELLO ETNA ROSSO $39.98 #301373
WINE ADVOCATE 92 POINTS- “The 2010 Etna Rosso Rovittello is 80-20 -Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from the Contrada Rovittello on the north face of the volcano at 700 meters above sea level. Rovittello is a gorgeous wine with a long aging future ahead. There’s a degree of richness and plumpness that is rare to find in the generally austere red wines from Etna. Black cherry and black currants are backed by light touches of cinnamon and clove (it ages up to 12 months in used oak). Drink 2015-2026.”

An Absolute Gorgeous and Unique Italian Wine From Elena Fucci

by Gary Faust

We are always interested in exploring wines of character or those which are unique. We especially like relatively obscure and distinctive varietals, because we are that store which stocks those kind of wines. On March 16^th, winemaker Elena Fucci visited us at the store and surprised us by bringing a vertical of her Titolo wines. Her family’s vineyard is small (less than 15 acres) and Elena focuses on a single wine only- Aglianico Del Vulture. Production is also quite small and only 100 cases are brought into California. We tasted the 2009 -2012 vintages of her wine, which was a treat.

We were impressed by the passion Elena has for her family and her wine. She is from the youngest of four generations of her family to farm their plot of land. Her 89 year old grandfather, Salvatore is still involved and wakes up at 5:00 AM each morning to go out in the fields and tend to the vines. The vines have an average age of 65 years, which results in low yields and high quality.

Aglianico is a unique grape found in only a few appellations in southern Italy, most notably in

the appellations of Taurasi and Aglianico Del Vulture. The grapes are an intense blue color, yielding a wine which can be quite structured and capable of aging. Elena’s vineyard is located at the highest altitude in the appellation at 600 meters and the vines benefit from true dormancy in winter when they shut down as protection against the snow that blankets the vineyard.

The soil is something you can barely call soil as it consists mainly of charcoal gray volcanic rock; the remnants of eruptions from Mount Vulture. The marriage of Aglianico grapes with the volcanic soils produce a visceral minerality. A smoky undertone frames the red fruit, tobacco and incense notes characteristic of these wines, which are sometimes referred to as the “Barolo of the South.”

The wines of Elena Fucci all exhibited “typicity”, which is a word wine geeks like us use to describe the degree to which a wine reflects the characteristic flavors and structure of the grape variety from which it was produced. In other words, these wines were excellent examples of what a quality wine made from Aglianico should taste like. In particular, we came away with an appreciation for the finesse and approachability of the Elena Fucci wines. They were not walled off by tannins, although they were certainly age-worthy and showed how the progression of time makes these wines even more beautiful. The current release is the 2012 vintage, which should be fun to watch evolve over the next decade.

As Elena said,” "We only work with our own grapes, which we grow with care. This is because we want to obtain a precious wine, full of quality and passion. This is our philosophy. That is the reason for using only a single label, and producing only a single product.” Indeed, Elena and her family do one thing and they do it well: bravo!

 

 ELENA FUCCI TITOLO 2012 AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE

Elena Fucci’s 2012 Aglianico Del Vulture is absolutely gorgeous. Deep ruby in color fading to a garnet rim. The nose is full and complex, with notes of roses, red berries and grilled herbs along with smoke and baking spices. On the palate, the wine is fresh, vibrant and full-bodied with flavors of red currants, cherry, rosemary, tobacco, cinnamon and vanilla. The balance of fruit, acidity and structure is excellent culminating with a very long finish. This wine is youthful and will only get better with time.

$44.95 750ml [301460]

Carlin de Paolo: Harmony in Wine, Family & Nature

Carlin de Paolo wines are four generations of grape growing and winemaking by the Ponte family of Piemonte. Jeancarlo and David, two brothers and the current winemakers, learned the trade from their father Franco, who learned it from his father Carlin, who learned from his father, Paolo, the man who started it all.In the early 1910s Paolo, at the time a recently married young man, planted his first vines in the rolling hills of Asti, just before WWI. He had always dreamed of growing grapes and his dream was finally happening. Unfortunately for Paolo the war began and the Germans rolled their tanks through those hills and decimated his vines. But luckily his young family survived and he was able to plant again.

All seemed to be going well for a couple of decades. Paolo's estate began to grow in acreage and his young family was growing as well. His son Carlin was grown, now helping his father in the vineyards and starting a family of his own. But fate was not on the Ponte's side as WWII broke out and the Germans, yet again, rolled through the hills of Piemonte, destroying their land.

The family forged on and, once the smoke had cleared, put all of their money back into the land. Paolo, now an older man, continued to work the vines with his son Carlin, and now grandson Franco. And as they say, the third time's the charm. There was no WWIII so the Ponte estate grew and grew, and today they have acreage through Asti, Alba, Barolo and Barbaresco.

As an homage to their great-grandfather's unyielding spirit, Jeancarlo and David have depicted Paolo on the front of every bottle of their family's wines. In his ripped trousers and worn-in hat, Paolo marches through the grey muck of life with a clenched fist and open heart, resulting in the beautiful red soil of his land behind him.

Carlin de Paolo "Il Giullare" 2013 Rosé Barbera $19.95 [301712]

Gorgeous salmon-colored rosé. The nose is filled with tropical fruits, mango, papaya, pineapple, a touch of minerality, floral notes and a hint of spice. Very lush. The palate continues the theme of lushness with excellent viscosity and richness; yet, this wine is very dry. The fresh, forward fruits give an illusion of sweetness while lending their flavors: nectarine, tangerine, wild cherries. Créme fraiche in the background, spring fruits in the finish with background musings of hibiscus and melon. Move over, south of France, there's a new contender in town. Perfect fit for the warm weather we've been having lately.

Carlin de Paolo 2012 Piemonte Grignolino $17.98 [301708]

Tasted chilled. Very peppery and spicy in the nose with equal parts red berry and red plum. Hints of warmer brown baking spices in the background. Dry in the mouth, the fruit's brightness (red berries, razzberry, red plum) is exceedingly attractive and pleasurable, melded with notes of Italian hillside/garrique. Mid-palate flashes of sweetness lead to a mostly dry finish with excellent echoes of of the mixed red fruits from nose and palate. Rather refreshing having this one chilled and would definitely recommend for the hot months and casual meals.

Carlin de Paolo 2012 Barbera d'Asti $19.95 [301702]

Notes of cherry/raspberry, dark spices and dark florals, cherry cola, vanilla, red licorice. Nice balance of fruits, slight earthiness and nice spice. The palate, again, is lush with mixed wild berries (blueberry, loganberry, raspberry) sending shoots of sweetness that are checked by excellent levels of tannin and acidity. Very harmonious, balanced wine. The mid-palate continues with mixed fruits and spices, sweetness tempered by structure, adding a touch of smoke, as the finish of berry fruits lasts and lasts.

Carlin de Paolo Cisterna d'Asti 100% Croatina (Bonarda)
$29.95 [301706]

We finished our Carlin de Paolo mini-tasting of four wines with this 100% Croatina Cisterna d'Asti, and what a treat it was. Fans of Cabernet Sauvignon should give this one a try as the fruits and tannins of Cab have some similarities to Croatina (Bonarda). The nose is rich and sexy: earthy strawberry, wood, mixed brown spices, tea leaf. In the mouth, it's rounded and viscous (an excellent theme with Carlin de Paolo that we enjoyed); the solid fruit flavors of mixed red berries (both cherry and cranberry stood out), the excellent tannins kept the fruit from becoming heavy, leading to a mid-palate and finish that added blackberry, strawberries and a light earthy minerality.