Carlo Mondavi, Continuum, visits Hi-Time

Big thanks to Carlo Mondavi for stopping by the cellar and tasting us on the soon-to-be-released (next week!) 2013 Continuum... Our California wine buyer Dan Williams says this release was '...hands down one of the best two or three wines I tasted on my recent Napa trip." As he was there for the Premiere Napa Valley auction, he was tasting top shelf wines only. And today? An easy two thumbs up. Don't miss this wine!

Cismontane Tasting Room Santa Ana: Visit & Interview

Interview/photos by Don Fox

My name is Don Fox. I’m one of the beer guys at Hi-Time Wine Cellars. For people who don’t know me, my biggest passions are travel and beer. It just made sense to take a piece of my already occurring weekly beer journeys and publish them on this new blog.

For my first installment, I planned a trip to the new Cismontane tasting room in Santa Ana. Besides the location being only 7.6 miles from Hi-Time, the beer department has always had a great relationship with the brewery. The following is a Q &A with Cismontane Owner and Brewmaster Evan Weinberg, Sales Rep Jordan Smith and myself.

Don: Let’s start out by giving a brief history of the brewery and explaining the different phases of expansion the company is undertaking.

Jordan: The beginning starts with Saddleback Brewing which was owned by a group of firefighters. Evan and Ross bought the location in ‘09, we made our first batch on Valentine’s Day 2010 and we have been upgrading the system as much as we can. We just recently opened the tap room in Santa Ana. We don't have a sign up yet so the crowds are slowly learning that we are here.

Don: Yeah, a lot of internet reviews say that they love the spot, love drinking here, but can never find it.

Jordan: Unfortunately with Google, they gave us the street address here in Santa Ana but the city and zip of Rancho Santa Margarita, so do not consult Google for now. Don’t have a telephone line in Santa Ana yet either so if you can, call the RSM location and they can give you the lowdown.

Don: You’re off the grid...

Jordan: Pretty off the grid... Yeah, we have dial up here as well, most internet providers are not willing to put in infrastructure due to the industrial space around here.

Don: You can also fax Cismontane.

Jordan: I think you can fax us! I don’t know the number but you can definitely fax us. So we’ve been ripping at the Rancho location ever since; we opened here in Santa Ana last November. The first phase is complete. You guys should come down and check it out. We have a 15-tap tasting room. The next phase will include a distillery in the back corner. You can see everything back there is in pieces right now that, hopefully, will be up and running by the end of the year. After that we’ll be evaluating production to see where we want to go. I think the overall plan is to brew in this space, but that’s still a ways off. We have a lease in RSM that runs well through 2016. We love it in RSM so I don’t see us leaving but eventually- we’re almost at capacity as is. There’s not much room for growth in RSM in terms of square footage, for adding fermenters, or anything like that. So when that time comes this will be the home-base or the production site. When that happens there’ll be a lot of walls to break down. So when you guys come by and check out the tasting room, you will see that all the offices are standing on the site of the brew house.

A side note on the Santa Ana location- we are getting the space next door renovated so we can have our distribution hub from this location. So all our distributors would pick up from here which is much more centrally located in Orange County. Not sure what would happen if we move production to Santa Ana - but any RSM locals, don’t fear, we will be accommodating you guys!

Don: I’ve noticed that this area of Orange County has become a hotspot for breweries and beer bars. Did this contribute to you guys picking out your location?

Evan: Access to roads and people! We have been secluded on the mountain side long enough. We needed more space and to be in a more convenient location. With Santa Ana’s exploding food and beverage scene, what could be better?

Don: One of the things I had read was that you guys are planning to do more one-off projects here?

Jordan: I think in this location we will have a better venue for it. In RSM we’re under 2500 square feet, in Santa Ana we are over 7000. Right now we are using less than half of it, we joke that it's our storage space. We have a sailboat, a small apartment’s worth of furniture, a piano…..

Don: It’s a work in progress. Going back to your distilling here, are you going to start out with clear alcohol with the intent on future barrel aging?

Jordan: I think that’s the projection that most budding distilleries go for, unless you have a lot of money. It’s difficult to open and not sell any for 5 years. I believe Evan is really interested in doing a gin that uses all local botanicals. We’re also looking into doing a brandy. I know the laws about retail at production sites are different with brandy than with the rest of the liquors. We are taking a look at unique ways to make brandy by possibly aging the brandy in wine barrels.

Don: I’ve noticed that you guys have experimented with beer/wine blends and wine barrel aging. Does Cismontane have a connection to the wine industry?

Evan: Wine for me started in college in Santa Barbara. The California central coast is a happening spot for wine. I made a lot of friends that worked in the industry; wine makers, farmers, salespeople, and cooperages. Some of my friends got into the wine industry around that time and have since been making names for themselves. We draw on these relationships and the knowledge that I have gained about wine in a unique way from the way we use barrels, to the collaboration products we make. The Mesa, for instance, is a perfect example. Charlie Wagner, of the Wagner family of wines, and I tasted every beer we could find that was brewed with grapes. It was a hell of a night! Most of the examples we tried were of the extreme variety. We decided that we wanted to do something that highlighted the flavors of both beverages in a way that made something that was unique and drinkable. We also wanted to make sure that none of the off flavors from the wine or beer world would be evident. Off flavors can be quite different for beer and wine. We call it The Mesa because it is a small part of Santa Barbara that we were both living when we met.

Don: Jordan, the beer I’m drinking at this very moment is your creation. Do you mind telling us about it?

Jordan: Hop Dumpster. We originally brewed the beer for Mohawk Bend’s IPA Festival in December. I proposed that we do something different than we had previously done. The concept was to brew a double IPA with no specialty malt. So it’s a blend of Pilsner, Maris Otter, and Pale Two Row from Washington. This beer’s hop schedule runs contrary to some of our core beers, where we have a scheduled hop addition to the boil.  In Hop Dumpster, we add just enough hops at the beginning of our bittering process to give it the right amount of IBUs. We save the vast majority of the hops for very late in the boil to get a more intense aroma and flavor characteristic from the hops, mostly characterized by Citra and Amarillo.

Don: Is there anything new we should be keeping our eyes out for?

Evan: Hop Dumpster will be available all year long, Cerveza SNA (Veinna Lager), more barrel aged beers!!!! We are going to try to get all the specialties that we like the most out this year, and there are a lot!

Cismontane Brewing Company - Santa Ana Tasting Room

1409 E Warner Suit C

Santa Ana CA, 92688

twitter: @cisbrewco

Instagram @cisbrewco

A Top-Rated Champagne "Time Machine"

A TOP-RATED CHAMPAGNE “TIME MACHINE”
by Jim "Bubblehead" Duane

 

We have all been taught that French Champagne is produced from any combination of three grapes, namely Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. For the vast majority of Champagne this is indeed the case. It's rarely mentioned, however, that the AOC regulations allow exceptions to this tripartite formula, and permit the use of four additional “historic” varietals: Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Fromemteau (a.k.a. Pinot Gris), and Pinot Blanc. They say variety is the spice of life and over the years we have had some intriguing heirloom grape Champagnes from Laherte and Pierre Gerbais, but it is the Aubry twins, Pierre and Philippe, that have done the most with these arcane grapes.  “If the varieties were planted in the first place our forebears must have a reason!” they say. The distinctive and alluring flavors of their “Campanae Veteres Vites” (i.e. “the old vines of the countyside”) cuvee have been turning heads now for more than a decade. 2009 was a very warm vintage in Champagne and these conditions enabled the brothers to create their showiest and probably their best ever edition of “Campaneae Veteres Vites”. If you are curious to experience the exotic flavor spectrum of pre-phylloxera Champagne, this Aubry is a scintillating time machine. The notes below are those of respected Champagne authority Peter Liem (ChampagneGuide.net) who gave it his highest (3 Star) rating. Note that quantities are very limited.

L. AUBRY FILS 2009 “LE NOMBRE D’OR CAMPANEAE VETERES VITES” $55.95 [377884] 

“This is a blend of 25 percent Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris (co-planted and fermented together), 20 percent Petit Meslier, 20 percent Pinot Noir, 15 percent Arbanne, 15 percent Chardonnay and five percent Meunier. Its glossy flavors of passion fruit, mango, guava and cassis are forward and voluptuous, although while this is luscious in feel, it’s neither heavy nor overly sweet (especially not at 3 g/l of dosage). It’s unusually multi-faceted, blending its fruit flavors with a complex herbalness and a detailed minerality—there’s the sense that an immense array of components are coming together in perfect harmony, building towards a long and vibrant finish. As usual with this cuvée, the arcane varieties lend an element of originality and surprise, and it gives the impression that there’s a lot more waiting to be discovered here in future tastings. Last tasted: 3/14.”

Coming into the store for this Champagne?  It is stacked near the front of the Champagne Room on the left side.

The Birthday Boys' Brews

The New Year is here and we have a few birthdays to celebrate: Juice and El Guapo, AKA Cathan and Fernando, are another year older which means another year wiser. In their old age, their palates have developed to a new level, requiring us to show off their new favorites. Since they are as dedicated to beer drinking as anyone, being stalwart members of the Hi-Time Beer Department, we decided to divide their picks into their breakfast, lunch and dinner beers that they plan on enjoying on their birthdays. 

-Cathan Cokas ("Juice"); Cathan runs the Hi-Time Beer Twitter Feed (here).

-Fernando Ruvalcaba ("El Guapo")

El Guapo’s Birthday Picks

Morning Beer

Stiegl Radler 12oz 6-pack $11.47 [472611] Link

They say that grapefruits are the breakfast of champions, well grapefruit radler is mine! With only 2.7 ABV, this is perfect way to keep going on the drinking marathon I'm having going on my birthday.

 “The Stiegl-Radler Grapefruit is a mix of Stiegl-Goldbräu and fruit juice that is invariably natural and has no artificial sweeteners added to it. The grapefruit juice lends this a naturally cloudy appearance and a tangy fruit flavor, creating a succulent and fruity taste sensation with a refreshing finish.”  -Stiegl Brewery Description

Lunch Beer

Ska Brewing Rudie Session IPA 12oz 6-pack $10.47 [474644]

Some say drinking a radler is too sissy. So keeping with the marathon, I wanted a beer with a little more attitude, “Lip Up Fatty!”  If “The Specials” like Rudie, then I must drink like Rudie! This session IPA had me skanking out! Ah-Ah-ah...

“Rudie begins with a big fruity hop aroma of pears and watermelon candy, but is relatively low in actual bitterness. Pairs great with breakfast, summer, sunny days, rainy days, winter, on the river, on the trail. Drink it any day, any time.” - Ska Brewery Description

Dinner Beer

Anderson Valley Highway 128 Series Blood Orange Gose 
12oz 6-pack $9.97 [474240]

Since I don’t have my funnel and tubing, I wanted a beer with a bit more of a complex taste. I want my blood to be orange-- blood orange, that is. With the right amount of salt, this Gose is just what I needed to soak up all the water that the alcohol didn’t replace yet.

“Our Blood Orange Gose is a tart, refreshing wheat ale that is kettle-soured with lactobacillus and brewed with sea salt and coriander. However, unlike traditional versions of the style, ours features liberal additions of blood oranges during fermentation. This imparts tangy citrus notes that complement the champagne-like flavors, creating a complex and sessionable ale perfect for any occasion.” -Anderson Valley Brewing Description

Juice’s Birthday Picks

Breakfast Beer

Lagunitas Day Time Session IPA 12oz 6-pack $10.47 [471488]

For breakfast, I wanted to start off with a light beer but being the picky guy I am, I couldn’t live with myself if I was to drink one of those mainstream beers every store will have. I am a big IPA guy but to start off the morning with the high alcohol and bitterness might be too much... even to jumpstart my birthday. I decided on a cousin of one my favorite IPAs , the Session IPA, and Day Time by Lagunitas is one of the best.

“Sometimes you want a beer, then you realize how much crap you need to do before you call it a day. This is it. Nicely dosed with Big, Round Hop Flavors and a Toasty Malt Foundation to satisfy your every need. But it still lets you stay in the game to do what needs to be done. Yup.” -Lagunitas Brewery Description

Lunch Beer

El Segundo Two 5 Left Double IPA 22oz $8.47 [473647]

Since the Session IPA I started my day on, I decided to put my big boy pants on and skip over the regular IPAs and jump up to the Double IPA coming from El Segundo Brewery. Filled with Simcoe, Citra, Cascade and Chinook hops, this beer is one of the premier craft brand IPAs out there.  

“A brazenly hop-forward beast of a beer, with a huge passionfruit nose. A subtle caramel character provides a malt backbone to shoulder the massive amount of dry-hopping that gives this beer its unique aroma and hop flavor. Two 5 Left is the runway that sends planes screaming right over El Segundo. We always knew we would name a beer after this local landmark, and when it came to naming our first Double IPA.. it fit the bill perfectly.” -El Segundo Brewing Description

Dinner Beer 

Boulder Brewery Shake Chocolate Porter 12oz 6-pack $9.97 [486598] Link

After my mid-day siesta from delicious IPA drinking, my sweet tooth arrived in full force and I was craving something silky smooth and full of chocolately goodness. I glanced around and realized Shake Chocolate Porter from Boulder was calling my name loud and clear. I sat down, popped open this delectable 12oz, and took down about half my birthday cake along with the other lonely beers in this 6-pack and reminisced over the last year. I’ve tasted so many great beers over this year, so many more to go.

“Our twist on the traditional robust American Porter, Shake Chocolate Porter is dark black in color with rich, sweet aromatics and flavors of dark chocolate, coffee and caramel. This unique brew blends five different grains, including Chocolate Wheat, that along with cacao nibs create a devilishly delicious chocolate finish with a velvety mouthfeel.” -Boulder Brewing Description

A New Year

Pricing, Service, Selection... since 1957
by Tobin Sharp

February, while the second month of the calendar year, has, at Hi-Time, traditionally been our "first month" of the new year-- generally following a busy fourth quarter (and 2014 was awesome, thanks to you our loyal friends and customers!) led by such holidays as Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's celebrations.   January has been our recovery month for many years.  It's a time for us to get the store re-stocked and shipshape for the upcoming year while also spurring us to come up with ideas and plans for the next 11 months.

It has been when we've mapped out the newsletter for February-- specifically-- while eyeing the rest of the year as well and trying to think ahead.  Since I took over as newsletter editor (way back in June, 1998), this has been an annual ritual.  A couple of years ago we made the decision to cease the "dead tree" version (i.e. "paper") as both printing and paper costs, and environmental concerns, made strong arguments against the newsprint line.

After much thought over the last year, and final meetings in January, we have decided to focus our storyline (that of our store and the great drams, etc., we carry) away from a monthly newsletter and toward a trio of online media outlets: this blog, our almost-daily emails and social media (mainly Facebook, Instagram and Twitter with perhaps more to follow).

Our emails, in conjunction with our website, will be the main sales portal and source of all that's new, cool or on sale here at the shop.  When we get the latest and greatest high-scoring California Cab, or Bordeaux, rare Bourbon or Scotch, hoppiest beer around, etc., we will most likely let you know via email.

The blog will undoubtedly cover some of the same topics as our emails but will afford us the chance to go into more depth, maybe covering a bit more history, perhaps have an interview with the creator of the featured beverage of the day.  It will also allow us to quickly get the word out on items that are important but maybe not necessarily something we'd email.  Last call on a particular wine.  One more case of that one beer was found.  One of our favorite winemakers is stopping by this afternoon.  It will also be a place where our staff can talk about what we're drinking, or places we've visited, vineyards we've strolled through.  Many of the traditional newsletter items (wine of the month, featured wineries, et al) will be seen here and perhaps in briefer format in our emails.  It will undoubtedly morph a bit here and there, as we delve deeper into the well of words (in conjunction with our whisky tumblers) as the year progresses, but our goal is to make it interesting and informative.

Social Media covers a little bit of everything-- news about what's going on at the wine bar or in the store, hopefully humorous items related to booze, items of interest to help us all get through the work week on the way to the weekend.  It's really just a great way to be in touch with you all and be there to answer questions, get a chuckle now and then, keep the narrative moving forward (toward Friday!).

Our goal is to provide the same information we have in the past but in a more immediate way across the three platforms mentioned above.  Underlying all of this are the three main pillars we stand upon at Hi-Time, and have done so since 1957: fair pricing, excellent service, tremendous selection.

We look forward to seeing you all online and instore this year-- Cheers!

 ***
February 2015 Wine of the Month
Mas Grand Plagniol "Tradition Rouge" $10.99 [334188]
Costières de Nîmes
50% Syrah, 50% Grenache

Cyril Marès has several vintages under his belt now and father Roger has happily handed over title to the domaine. The wines always show exceptional aromatic appeal, supple texture and uncannily intelligent balance between fruit and oak. We never seem to buy enough of them, mainly because they have little to sell. Wines like these offer incontrovertible proof that not much money can buy you a lot of love. In a market now brimming with Nîmois wines, these remain at the top of the pile.

The great ones do their best work in the lesser vintages, as proved by Cyril in years like 2008 and 2002. We challenge you to find a wine that better combines aromatic flair, suave texture and sheerly delicious spicy Rhône fruit at such a silly price.

Our tasting notes: The nose is rich, sweet, dark and spicy-- cassis, raw meat, boysenberry, dark florals & spices, vinous plum and assorted blue/purple fruits, black tea. The palate is full of dark fruits, blue to purple to black. Subtle tannins and excellent acidity keep the wine buoyant, not bogged down. Notes of cola berry, mixed herbs and baking/brown spices are reinforced by a layer of bright fruit in the mid-palate. The finish is lengthy with sustained notes of reiterated dark fruits and spices.