A Top-Rated Champagne "Time Machine"

A TOP-RATED CHAMPAGNE “TIME MACHINE”
by Jim "Bubblehead" Duane

 

We have all been taught that French Champagne is produced from any combination of three grapes, namely Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. For the vast majority of Champagne this is indeed the case. It's rarely mentioned, however, that the AOC regulations allow exceptions to this tripartite formula, and permit the use of four additional “historic” varietals: Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Fromemteau (a.k.a. Pinot Gris), and Pinot Blanc. They say variety is the spice of life and over the years we have had some intriguing heirloom grape Champagnes from Laherte and Pierre Gerbais, but it is the Aubry twins, Pierre and Philippe, that have done the most with these arcane grapes.  “If the varieties were planted in the first place our forebears must have a reason!” they say. The distinctive and alluring flavors of their “Campanae Veteres Vites” (i.e. “the old vines of the countyside”) cuvee have been turning heads now for more than a decade. 2009 was a very warm vintage in Champagne and these conditions enabled the brothers to create their showiest and probably their best ever edition of “Campaneae Veteres Vites”. If you are curious to experience the exotic flavor spectrum of pre-phylloxera Champagne, this Aubry is a scintillating time machine. The notes below are those of respected Champagne authority Peter Liem (ChampagneGuide.net) who gave it his highest (3 Star) rating. Note that quantities are very limited.

L. AUBRY FILS 2009 “LE NOMBRE D’OR CAMPANEAE VETERES VITES” $55.95 [377884] 

“This is a blend of 25 percent Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris (co-planted and fermented together), 20 percent Petit Meslier, 20 percent Pinot Noir, 15 percent Arbanne, 15 percent Chardonnay and five percent Meunier. Its glossy flavors of passion fruit, mango, guava and cassis are forward and voluptuous, although while this is luscious in feel, it’s neither heavy nor overly sweet (especially not at 3 g/l of dosage). It’s unusually multi-faceted, blending its fruit flavors with a complex herbalness and a detailed minerality—there’s the sense that an immense array of components are coming together in perfect harmony, building towards a long and vibrant finish. As usual with this cuvée, the arcane varieties lend an element of originality and surprise, and it gives the impression that there’s a lot more waiting to be discovered here in future tastings. Last tasted: 3/14.”

Coming into the store for this Champagne?  It is stacked near the front of the Champagne Room on the left side.