Chardonnay Symposium May 12-14

7th Annual International Chardonnay Symposium
May 12-14, 2016
 

Please join us at our annual global gathering of the world’s top Chardonnay producers at the 7th Annual International Chardonnay Symposium, hosted by the stunning coastal communities of Pismo Beach, Avila Beach and the Edna Valley wine region.
 
Our Symposium showcases the finest wines from the world’s most notable Chardonnay wine producing regions, like Chablis, Russian River, Australia, Napa Valley, Chile, South Africa and beyond. This year’s French Forum will have an expert-led exploration of France’s quintessential Chardonnay regions, such as Chablis Champagne, Montrachet, Pouilly-Fuissé, Languedoc-Roussillon and Meursault. Moderated by Master Sommelier Bob Bath, from the Culinary Institute of America, it includes Claude Rouquet from the Boisset Collection, Bruno Laclotte from Charton et Trebuchet, Bernard Retornez from Maison Louis Latour, Kyle Kaplan from Piper-Heidsieck, and Geoffroy de La Besnardière from Domaine de l’Arjolle.
 
The French Forum is but one of the many fascinating panel discussions. Others include: Wente Clone Comparative Tasting, What’s Oak Got to Do With It?,Pairing Chardonnay With Artisanal Cheeses, Taste the Difference: Exploring California’s Distinct Chardonnay Regions and Hone Your Chardonnay Blind-Tasting Skills. Other exceptional events include The Grand Tasting at Greengate Ranch & Vineyard, Vintners’ Wine Tech Symposium, Sommelier Chardonnay Challenge, La Paulée Dinner & Vintners Awards Ceremony, and this year’s featured  Pét-Nat and Sparkling Wine & Oysters Gala.
 
As one of our preferred subscribers, we have extended our discount code “hitime2016" for you to receive 20% off your Symposium tickets. For more details on this event and to purchase your tickets, click here!
 
This is an exclusive event and we look forward to seeing you!

Greek Winemaker To Visit Hi-Time April 28th

Next Thursday, April 28... Just in time for Greek Orthodox Easter, Hi-Time will host winemaker Apostolos Spiropoulos who will be present from 5-7 pm (the tasting runs from 4:30-8:30pm) to discuss his family's wines and organically farmed vineyards. $20. We will taste 6 wines-- come down & taste!

The Spiropoulos family has maintained close ties with vineyards and wine since 1860.
The family’s vineyards are located on the Ancient Mantinia plateau in the central Peloponnese at an altitude of 650 meters, and in the vicinity of Ancient Nemea.  Α total of over 86 acres of vineyards are cultivated with grapes ranging from Moschofilero, Agiorghitiko, Lagorthi and Merlot to Cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and Syrah.

Since 1993, cultivation in Domaine Spiropoulos vineyards has met the “Organic Farming” requirements of EU Law 2092/91, and since 1996 the grapes of Domaine Spiropoulos have been certified for organic cultivation by DIO, the authorized agency in Greece for certification of organic produce.

The target Is producing high-quality grapes and wines, and protecting the ecosystem and the environment.

For more on Domaine Spiropoulos, please visit their website:

http://www.domainspiropoulos.com/

Carlo Mondavi, Continuum, visits Hi-Time

Big thanks to Carlo Mondavi for stopping by the cellar and tasting us on the soon-to-be-released (next week!) 2013 Continuum... Our California wine buyer Dan Williams says this release was '...hands down one of the best two or three wines I tasted on my recent Napa trip." As he was there for the Premiere Napa Valley auction, he was tasting top shelf wines only. And today? An easy two thumbs up. Don't miss this wine!

Whisky Live: Los Angeles 2015 - 11/6/15

Whisky Live is this Friday, November 6th, at Loew's Hollywood Hotel up in LA, 6-10pm.  This is a great event for Whisky lovers of all stripes-- here are the main draws:

SAMPLE FROM OVER 150+ WHISKIES

VIP EXPERIENCE AREA

DELICIOUS DINNER BUFFET

MASTER CLASSES

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 

COMPLETE EVENING OUT

Use the code "LA2015" for a 15% discount on tickets.  For more info, visit whiskyliveusa.com or whiskylive.com.

From Mount Etna, Italy: Cantina Benanti

by Gary Faust

Last month, Salvino Benanti visited Hi-Time to share his wines and talk about his passion for the wines of Mount Etna. The Benanti family has been growing grapes and caring for some of the island's oldest vines since the late 1890s. They sold their grapes for decades until Salvino’s father, Giuseppe, decided to indulge his passion and began making wine in 1988. At the time, most of the wine produced in Sicily was sold in bulk and was not of very high quality. Mr. Benanti believed in the potential of the region and knew the combination of minerality and climate from Mount Etna made the wines capable of greatness. He risked his own money, focused on indigenous grapes from the island and strove to increase the quality of wines produced there.

He believed he could make high quality, ageable, food-friendly wines, which could compete favorably with other wines of the world. Over the years, his vision has come to fruition. The white and red wines made by Benanti display a combination of character and elegance. In time, others from Etna have followed Giuseppe’s lead and established the reputation of Etna as one capable of producing excellent wines.

After Giuseppe passed, Salvino and his brother Antonio carried on, maintaining the traditional style while also instilling a more disciplined approach to ensure consistency. Salvino sees himself as an ambassador for Benanti, but also of Etna- so convinced is he of the quality.

Sicily is a land of extremes, with snow visible on the Mount Etna for 8-9 months out of the year while the sun shines on the coast near the azure waters. The slopes of Etna provide ideal conditions for grape growing. The days are sunny and warm and the nights are cool, creating diurnal temperature swings, which enable grapes to ripen slowly and retain aromatics and acidity. 

Over the years, the Benanti family has acquired several plots of land within the Etna DOC. Some of these parcels include old ungrafted vines, which have survived the scourge of phylloxera. The island’s unique volcanic soil and dryness have protected these vines and Etna can boast some of Europe's oldest vines. These old vines have very low yields with excellent concentration of flavors.

The oldest vineyard sits at the top of a hill overlooking the winery and contains vines which are more than 100 years old. These Carricante and Nerello Mascalese vines sit at about 450 meters of altitude on the southeast slopes of the volcano. This exposure means they tend to be warmer than the rest of Etna, leading Benanti to generally be the first to harvest grapes on the mountain each year. Most of the winery's vines are head-trained.
The grapes are fermented with native yeasts in steel tanks (for the whites) or large old oak vats (for the reds), then transferred to old oak barrels of varying sizes for aging. Benanti uses mostly two- and three-year-old French oak barrels. Despite the winery's small size, they are among the best known of Etna's producers thanks to being some of the earliest pioneers in Etna's relatively short modern history of wine production. The fact that they make great wine might also have something to do with it. Benanti was awarded Winery of the Year by leading Italian Wine Guide Gambero Rosso in 2007 and by Wine & Spirits Magazine in 2012.

We tasted through several wines with Salvino and found the Benanti wines to be delicious. The 2004 Serra della Contessa is definitely in a sweet spot in its perfect stage of evolution.

BENANTI 2004 SERRA DELLA CONTESSA $49.95 #301470
We are spellbound by the complexity of this perfectly aged wine from the historic Benanti family estate. This cuvee is composed primarily of Nerello Mascalese with a small amount of Nerello Cappuccio. Think of a hypothetical cross of Burgundian Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, which is vibrant and fresh at 11 years of age. As Salvino says, “These are elegant wines for elegant food and elegant people.” We agree wholeheartedly and know our customers will enjoy this tremendous food wine, which pairs exceptionally well with lamb, pork dishes, sausage or even pizza!

ROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS - "Benanti's 2004 Serra della Contessa is a showstopper. This blend of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio is made from 100-year old vines, many of which date to pre-phylloxera times. The wine is fermented in oak vats, then racked into French oak barrels for aging. It reveals notable intensity and purity in its expressive layers of ripe fruit, leather, minerals, menthol, licorice and smoke. Supple, finessed tannins frame the gorgeous finish. Today the wine is quite primary but in time it will likely develop into an ethereal beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016."

BENANTI 2010 PIETRAMARINA BIANCO SUPERIORE $46.98 #301366
Benanti allows PIETRAMARINA BIANCO SUPERIORE to rest on the lees after fermentation, imparting more complexity and fuller body. In a word, this wine was amazing, complex and capable of aging. This is an Italian white wine for lovers of white burgundy.

WINE ENTHUSIAST 95 POINTS - "This stunning, full-bodied wine is in the running as one of the best white wines in Italy. It’s perfumed with acacia flower, Spanish broom, beeswax, flint and tree fruit. The delicious palate delivers green apple, Anjou pear and mineral sensations of mesmerizing depth. It will develop even more complexity over time. Drink through 2025”



BENANTI 2010 ROVITTELLO ETNA ROSSO $39.98 #301373
WINE ADVOCATE 92 POINTS- “The 2010 Etna Rosso Rovittello is 80-20 -Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from the Contrada Rovittello on the north face of the volcano at 700 meters above sea level. Rovittello is a gorgeous wine with a long aging future ahead. There’s a degree of richness and plumpness that is rare to find in the generally austere red wines from Etna. Black cherry and black currants are backed by light touches of cinnamon and clove (it ages up to 12 months in used oak). Drink 2015-2026.”

Updates: The Golden Palate!

by Tobin Sharp

Our staff competition is well under way so we thought it a good time to give you an update on our recent "battles" and the top wines from those nights.

On March 27th, reigning champ "Golden Boy" Zach Korhonen took on the "Duchess of Deutschland" Beate Martin and ended up with a Golden Palate first: a complete shutout.  Zach won 12-0.  The top wines of the night (both from Zach) were: #1. Groundwork 2012 Mourvedre $19.95 [227430] & #2. Bonn Anno 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon $19.95 [204590].

On April 3rd, Patty Quick took on yours truly (Tobin Sharp) and in a highly-contested match, Patty came through in the end to win 8-6.  The top wine of the night was selected by Tobin, Vignerons de Maury 2012 Nature de Schiste $17.99 [333389], while there was a tie for the 2nd place wine between Hewitson "Ned & Henry's" 2012 Shiraz/Mourvedre $19.98 [379936], selected by Tobin, and Heartland "Spice Trader" 2012 Shiraz/Cabernet $13.95 [382619], selected by Patty.

Our next match will be on Friday, April 17 and will feature last year's runner-up in the overall competition, Dan Williams, competing against relative newcomer Kendall White... this could be a David v. Goliath moment or more akin to Bambi v. Godzilla.  Who knows?  As always, keep an eye on our winebar page to find out about upcoming tastings.

An Absolute Gorgeous and Unique Italian Wine From Elena Fucci

by Gary Faust

We are always interested in exploring wines of character or those which are unique. We especially like relatively obscure and distinctive varietals, because we are that store which stocks those kind of wines. On March 16^th, winemaker Elena Fucci visited us at the store and surprised us by bringing a vertical of her Titolo wines. Her family’s vineyard is small (less than 15 acres) and Elena focuses on a single wine only- Aglianico Del Vulture. Production is also quite small and only 100 cases are brought into California. We tasted the 2009 -2012 vintages of her wine, which was a treat.

We were impressed by the passion Elena has for her family and her wine. She is from the youngest of four generations of her family to farm their plot of land. Her 89 year old grandfather, Salvatore is still involved and wakes up at 5:00 AM each morning to go out in the fields and tend to the vines. The vines have an average age of 65 years, which results in low yields and high quality.

Aglianico is a unique grape found in only a few appellations in southern Italy, most notably in

the appellations of Taurasi and Aglianico Del Vulture. The grapes are an intense blue color, yielding a wine which can be quite structured and capable of aging. Elena’s vineyard is located at the highest altitude in the appellation at 600 meters and the vines benefit from true dormancy in winter when they shut down as protection against the snow that blankets the vineyard.

The soil is something you can barely call soil as it consists mainly of charcoal gray volcanic rock; the remnants of eruptions from Mount Vulture. The marriage of Aglianico grapes with the volcanic soils produce a visceral minerality. A smoky undertone frames the red fruit, tobacco and incense notes characteristic of these wines, which are sometimes referred to as the “Barolo of the South.”

The wines of Elena Fucci all exhibited “typicity”, which is a word wine geeks like us use to describe the degree to which a wine reflects the characteristic flavors and structure of the grape variety from which it was produced. In other words, these wines were excellent examples of what a quality wine made from Aglianico should taste like. In particular, we came away with an appreciation for the finesse and approachability of the Elena Fucci wines. They were not walled off by tannins, although they were certainly age-worthy and showed how the progression of time makes these wines even more beautiful. The current release is the 2012 vintage, which should be fun to watch evolve over the next decade.

As Elena said,” "We only work with our own grapes, which we grow with care. This is because we want to obtain a precious wine, full of quality and passion. This is our philosophy. That is the reason for using only a single label, and producing only a single product.” Indeed, Elena and her family do one thing and they do it well: bravo!

 

 ELENA FUCCI TITOLO 2012 AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE

Elena Fucci’s 2012 Aglianico Del Vulture is absolutely gorgeous. Deep ruby in color fading to a garnet rim. The nose is full and complex, with notes of roses, red berries and grilled herbs along with smoke and baking spices. On the palate, the wine is fresh, vibrant and full-bodied with flavors of red currants, cherry, rosemary, tobacco, cinnamon and vanilla. The balance of fruit, acidity and structure is excellent culminating with a very long finish. This wine is youthful and will only get better with time.

$44.95 750ml [301460]

Carlin de Paolo: Harmony in Wine, Family & Nature

Carlin de Paolo wines are four generations of grape growing and winemaking by the Ponte family of Piemonte. Jeancarlo and David, two brothers and the current winemakers, learned the trade from their father Franco, who learned it from his father Carlin, who learned from his father, Paolo, the man who started it all.In the early 1910s Paolo, at the time a recently married young man, planted his first vines in the rolling hills of Asti, just before WWI. He had always dreamed of growing grapes and his dream was finally happening. Unfortunately for Paolo the war began and the Germans rolled their tanks through those hills and decimated his vines. But luckily his young family survived and he was able to plant again.

All seemed to be going well for a couple of decades. Paolo's estate began to grow in acreage and his young family was growing as well. His son Carlin was grown, now helping his father in the vineyards and starting a family of his own. But fate was not on the Ponte's side as WWII broke out and the Germans, yet again, rolled through the hills of Piemonte, destroying their land.

The family forged on and, once the smoke had cleared, put all of their money back into the land. Paolo, now an older man, continued to work the vines with his son Carlin, and now grandson Franco. And as they say, the third time's the charm. There was no WWIII so the Ponte estate grew and grew, and today they have acreage through Asti, Alba, Barolo and Barbaresco.

As an homage to their great-grandfather's unyielding spirit, Jeancarlo and David have depicted Paolo on the front of every bottle of their family's wines. In his ripped trousers and worn-in hat, Paolo marches through the grey muck of life with a clenched fist and open heart, resulting in the beautiful red soil of his land behind him.

Carlin de Paolo "Il Giullare" 2013 Rosé Barbera $19.95 [301712]

Gorgeous salmon-colored rosé. The nose is filled with tropical fruits, mango, papaya, pineapple, a touch of minerality, floral notes and a hint of spice. Very lush. The palate continues the theme of lushness with excellent viscosity and richness; yet, this wine is very dry. The fresh, forward fruits give an illusion of sweetness while lending their flavors: nectarine, tangerine, wild cherries. Créme fraiche in the background, spring fruits in the finish with background musings of hibiscus and melon. Move over, south of France, there's a new contender in town. Perfect fit for the warm weather we've been having lately.

Carlin de Paolo 2012 Piemonte Grignolino $17.98 [301708]

Tasted chilled. Very peppery and spicy in the nose with equal parts red berry and red plum. Hints of warmer brown baking spices in the background. Dry in the mouth, the fruit's brightness (red berries, razzberry, red plum) is exceedingly attractive and pleasurable, melded with notes of Italian hillside/garrique. Mid-palate flashes of sweetness lead to a mostly dry finish with excellent echoes of of the mixed red fruits from nose and palate. Rather refreshing having this one chilled and would definitely recommend for the hot months and casual meals.

Carlin de Paolo 2012 Barbera d'Asti $19.95 [301702]

Notes of cherry/raspberry, dark spices and dark florals, cherry cola, vanilla, red licorice. Nice balance of fruits, slight earthiness and nice spice. The palate, again, is lush with mixed wild berries (blueberry, loganberry, raspberry) sending shoots of sweetness that are checked by excellent levels of tannin and acidity. Very harmonious, balanced wine. The mid-palate continues with mixed fruits and spices, sweetness tempered by structure, adding a touch of smoke, as the finish of berry fruits lasts and lasts.

Carlin de Paolo Cisterna d'Asti 100% Croatina (Bonarda)
$29.95 [301706]

We finished our Carlin de Paolo mini-tasting of four wines with this 100% Croatina Cisterna d'Asti, and what a treat it was. Fans of Cabernet Sauvignon should give this one a try as the fruits and tannins of Cab have some similarities to Croatina (Bonarda). The nose is rich and sexy: earthy strawberry, wood, mixed brown spices, tea leaf. In the mouth, it's rounded and viscous (an excellent theme with Carlin de Paolo that we enjoyed); the solid fruit flavors of mixed red berries (both cherry and cranberry stood out), the excellent tannins kept the fruit from becoming heavy, leading to a mid-palate and finish that added blackberry, strawberries and a light earthy minerality.

The California Wine Staff Goes To Napa

By Dan Williams, North American Wine Buyer

During February of each year, hundreds of wineries in the Napa Valley hold a special auction for members of the trade, called Premiere Napa Valley. The wineries auction off special one-of-a-kind bottlings in five, ten, or twenty case lots. These are wines that the wineries don’t sell anywhere else, and they are crafted to be the best expressions of their wines they can possibly make; a Reserve’s Reserve, if you will.

During this week, wineries throw big parties and tastings where they pour these special cuvées along with virtually their entire lineup of wines. Many wineries often pour older vintages from their cellars to showcase the aging potential of their wines. In addition, we have great relationships with many of the owners and winemakers in Napa, so this is a great time to ask about upcoming vintages. This helps us to get you on the “ground floor” for vintages you should buy heavier, and vintages where you should “pump the brakes.”

I don’t know about you, but this sounds like the perfect time to make a trip to Napa Valley! So Zach Korhonen and I jumped in the car before the morning light, and by lunchtime, we were drinking Champagne and Cabernet with some of the best winemakers in the world! Below are some of the highlights from our mid-February trip.

First off, let’s talk about the current and a few upcoming vintages.

2011 – For such a crappy vintage, why are there so many good wines?

I’m not going to lie to you. As a blanket statement, this is probably the toughest vintage for Bordeaux varieties Napa and Sonoma have seen in 20 years! This was a cold, wet, and foggy year that prohibited phenolic maturity and ripeness from occurring in many vineyards, along with widespread rot. Many vintners have quite a way of spinning this vintage, telling us things like, “...this was a tough vintage, but we succeeded in producing elegant and savory wines.”  Quite often, their wines were simply disappointing, showing notes of jalapeno, bell pepper and harsh tannins.

But there were, in fact, some amazing wines. Not just amazing for the vintage, but simply amazing! A few years ago, Zach Korhonen and I were walking with winemaker Sally Johnson through the caves at Pride Mountain Wines on Spring Mountain, tasting barrel samples from the 2011 and 2012 vintage. She poured a sample of the Reserve Claret in my glass, and this wine was an absolute knockout! Ripe, juicy red and black fruits, notes of vanilla, cassis, velvety tannins, and a hint of white pepper. I told her that this was a gorgeous 2012 and her response was, “No, that’s our 2011.”  What?!?!? This woman knows what she’s doing, and for 2011 being such a “crappy vintage,” why does this taste so damn good?!?!? When we moved on to a barrel sample of the 2012, yes, it was better, but I don’t feel there was an extreme difference.

During spring of last year, I was able to attend a trade-only event in Napa Valley’s Oakville district and sample many of the wines from this prestigious region. The winner of that day was Dalla Valle’s 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon. It showcased the ripe black currants, plums, black cherries and pronounced tannins that I have come to love from the hillsides of eastern Oakville. It turns out that there are some successes on the valley floor, but most of the real winners come from hillside and mountaintop vineyards. Places that were above the fog, and were able to get enough sunshine to let grapes rid themselves of those green tasting pyrazines and get some ripeness going.

Great wineries produce great wine, even in the off years. France’s Chateau Margaux doesn’t produce bad wine for their 1^st growth label. In tough years they just bottle less wine so that what does make it into bottle is stellar juice! The same can be said for the top producers in California’s North Coast. So don’t overlook quality producers from this year; you might be doing yourself a disservice.

2012 – Worthy of most of the hype you have heard.

If you were a winemaker, and you made a bad Napa or Sonoma Cabernet in 2012, just give up, because this was such an easy year that you will not be able to make a good Cabernet in any other year! That is a paraphrased statement from many vineyard managers and winemakers in Napa and Sonoma.

There’s typically some news of something rough happening in a given vintage, but not in 2012. In 2012 there weren’t 10 days of triple-digit heat, no heavy rains coming during harvest, no smoke taint. In fact, I don’t even think there were any major frost issues this year. It was sunny, warm, and virtually uneventful, except for much of the fruit coming off the vines at the same time (but that was more of a space issue within the wineries). Winemakers could call the picks as they wanted, getting fruit that was in their respective sweet spots, and winemakers made gorgeous wines showcasing luscious red fruits, nicely placed acidity, velvety tannins, and beautiful aromatics.

So why, earlier, did I say this vintage was worthy of most of the hype? It’s hard to pinpoint, but I think some growers and wineries got greedy. Yields were low for several years, so when the 2012 growing season began, some producers kept yields higher than maybe they should have been. This meant that those producers made wines with short finished, or had great presence up front and on the finish, but was just lacking that “certain something” on the mid-palate. While we were in Napa Valley this past February, this was mentioned by more than one prominent winemaker.

However, there are so many damn amazing wines from the 2012 vintage! This is, by every means, a vintage to buy. As a blanket statement, these are wines that are very drinkable now, and will lie down for a decade or more. The tannins are a bit more velvety than I prefer, but I think that just adds to their charm and their approachability. Even producers that aren’t usually “on my radar” have made wonderful 2012s.

2013 – One of the best vintages I have ever tasted!

During my Napa trip in February, I think the worst wine from the 2013 vintage I tasted was really, really good….that was the worst wine. Now if that’s the case, just think about how good the best wines tasted! Flash back to my Napa trip from last year, and it was as if winemakers were given a script to read. Every time I asked about their 2012s, they stated they were very happy with them, and the 2012 were fantastic wines. But when I asked about their 2013s, they would all cover their mouths, look around, and state that their 2013s were even better! I would ask another winemaker (who, mind you, was not within earshot of the previous conversation), and their statements were similar. This happened almost 10 times during that trip. So as great as the 2012s were, I was already getting giddy for the 2013s over a year ago. Now that I have finally tasted so many of the 2013s, I feel confident in saying that 2013 Cabernets from the top producers may be some of the best Cabernets I have ever tasted out of Napa Valley!

These wines have rich, decadent, intense black fruit flavors, remarkable aromatics, gorgeous purity, amazing mid-palates, amazing structure, pronounced but balanced tannins, and lengthy finishes. Moreover, they have good acidity that gives these ripe, fruit-forward wines the structure to be balanced. These are wines that should be able to age in your cellars until your newborns are “of legal age.”  In fact, it would not surprise me if the top producers made wines that will age 20, 30, even 40 years!

In addition, the Chardonnays I have tasted from this vintage may also be some of the best Chardonnays I’ve ever tasted from this region. I can’t recall the last vintage where the Chardonnays have brought such a smile to my face! Again, the acidity in these wines balance out the richness that can sometimes be overdone from this area.

Some Highlights from the Trip

Morlet

One of our fist stops of the week was to visit the masterful Luc Morlet at his eponymous estate. Luc knows how to craft magnificent wines from many different varietals. From 1996-2000 he made the wines at Newton, where he helped to craft their Unfiltered Chardonnay, a favorite among collectors. He then became the head winemaker for Peter Michael Winery and crafted their wines from the 2001-2005 vintages, where his wines earned up to 99 points! While he does consult for a few other wineries (such as Bure), he focuses most of his time for his own Morlet label. Here, he is making Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Syrahs, and Cabernet Sauvignons that are among the most intriguing and nuanced in Napa and Sonoma! His prefers his vineyard sources to be organic, and he uses minimal amounts of sulfites in his wines; he wants to be as “out of the way” as possible. The Morlet wines are not to be missed!

Kata

The Beckstoffer family is known as having one of the best Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards…not only in Napa, but in the world! We are, of course, speaking of Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville. However, their other vineyards are just as stellar! We met up with David Beckstoffer at the family’s Beckstoffer Bourne vineyard in St. Helena, and tasted a few vintages of David’s Kata Cabernet Sauvignon blend. This property is nestled in the same neighborhood as Spottswoode, and down the street from the family’s Dr. Crane and Las Piedras vineyards. The 2012 Kata blends Cabernet Sauvignon with Petite Sirah from vines that are over 50 years old! Benoit Touquette makes this wine, and if you know how awesome the wines are that he makes for Passenger, Hartwell, and Realm, then you know how amazingly good this wine will be when it’s released this April!

Memento Mori

The past two years, this has been one of our favorite wines of the entire trip! Adam Craun, Hayes Drumwright and Adriel Lares wanted to make a wine from only the best grapes. Yeah, while others say this, these guys actually did it! The grapes come from Beckstoffer Las Piedras, Beckstoffer Dr. Crane, and another killer vineyard on the steep slopes of eastern Oakville, right next to Phelps’ Backus Vineyard! Their winemaker is the young and talented Sam Kaplin, who caught our eye when we first tasted the wines he makes at Arkenstone on Howell Mountain! Sam’s keen eye and deft hand have created a masterpiece that stands apart from other Napa Valley Cabernets, as this showcases rich, dense black fruits, with good tannin structure, floral aromatics, and just enough acidity to make our mouths water. The newly released 2012 (#241990) has just landed, and it received 95 points from Robert Parker…very limited!

Pulido Walker

Two of the unstuffiest (is that a word?) people in Napa are Mark Pulido and Donna Walker. They…are…appreciative; of everything they have in life. They appreciate the hard work from their employees, the loyalty of their direct customers, and the partnership with their restaurants and retailers. They’re also pretty cool and down to earth, and that makes us want to see them succeed even more! Their winemaker is Thomas Brown, who has made 100 point wines at Schrader, and even makes the wines at Maybach and Outpost. The newly-released 2012 Panek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (#249330) comes from a small vineyard near Vineyard 29, Morlet, and Revana. Earning 95 points from Robert Parker, this is already close to selling out!

Shafer Vineyards

I’m not gonna lie; this is always one of my favorite stops of the weekend! Shafer rolls out the red carpet, often showing the current vintage and one older vintage of Chardonnay, Merlot, Relentless, and One Point Five Cabernet. Oh…and they pour 5 different vintages of their Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, along with their PNV offering! I was amazed at how youthful the 2004 Relentless Syrah was showing, and the tremendous purity of the 2012 One Point Five Cabernet (#259830). Their Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay sells out every year, and I will go out on a limb and state that the 2013 Chardonnay (#259600) is the best Chardonnay I have ever tasted from Shafer! Run, don’t walk, to get this wine!

Want to hear more, or learn about some of the other gems we found in Napa, including some first-time releases from new wineries you haven’t heard of? Then come on in and speak with Dan or Zach!

Hartford Family Winery: Impressive Wines from Russian River AVA

by Dan Williams

Robert Parker has commented that "Hartford Family Winery is one of the most impressively run wineries in the Russian River AVA."  Why is that?  Because Don Hartford knows how to find the right spots for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and knows how to coax the most out of those berries!

Pinot Noir is one of the most fickle grapes in the world for wine production.  It’s not like Syrah, in that it can thrive in a wide variety of soils and climates.  No… Pinot Noir is picky.  It only shows its best when it’s in one of a very few specific types of soil, with minimal rain during the growing season, and in cooler regions.  Maybe that’s why Pinot Noir is so revered by consumers and collectors, and certain bottlings of Pinot Noir are among the most expensive wines in the world.

Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley and its surrounding areas are known as having the ability to produce some of the best Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay) in the world.  The cooling influence from the Pacific Ocean combined with the loamy soils that are a mix of sand, clay, and old ocean floor, are an ideal combination for these Burgundian varietals.  Don and Jennifer Hartford fell in love with the Pinot Noirs around their Russian River Valley home and began to learn why these wines were so special.  They found that making delicious wines of high personality is directly related to the difficult locations of their vineyard sources, along with limiting the yields of those vineyards.  "Character through adversity" is an expression that they believe applies to people and grapevines, and surviving adversity builds character, and personality, in both.  Since 1994, the Hartford Family Winery has crafted some of the most thrilling Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays out of Sonoma County and yet they have flown relatively under the radar.  Well… we’re here to change that last part!

The Hartford wines have received VERY high scores in the past few years; scores as high as 97 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.  Recently, we went through much of the lineup, and to say that we were completely floored by this current offering would be an understatement.  We are fortunate to taste a large number of wines here at Hi-Time, but it’s not often that the entire lineup from one winery really makes us “sit up straight and pay attention--" these Hartford wines did just that!

That being said, here’s a list of some of the standout wines from that recent tasting-- including the pictured-at-left Old Vine Zin.  Some of these wines are extremely limited, so you might not want to hesitate!

HARTFORD 2013 CHARDONNAY RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
$23.95 [228800]
One taste of this Chardonnay, and we were hooked!  This Russian River Valley Chardonnay comes from a collection of small vineyards located throughout the Russian River Valley AVA.  These vineyards are a combination of Hartford Court's estate properties such as Fog Dance, Arrendell and Bloomfield, as well as a handful of neighboring vineyards located in the heart of the Russian River Valley. The sites express the essence of the Russian River Valley by showcasing the best of the sub-regions within this world class AVA.  Aged for 9 months in French oak barrels, the 2013 Hartford Court Russian River Valley Chardonnay offers subtle aromas of jasmine flower, citrus oil, ripe apple and pear.  The elegant aromatics are complemented by fresh kiwi, lemon drop and Pippin apple flavors.  The fruit-focused mid-palate is followed by subtle mineral notes and a hint of crystallized ginger in the finish.


HARTFORD 2013 CHARDONNAY “FOUR HEARTS” RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $30.99 [228870]
ROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS! – “From the Laguna Ridge sub-region of Russian River, the bottled 2013 Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyard (1,200 cases made) is fashioned from such older Chardonnay clones as the Wente, Sees and Rued. It displays tremendous acidity, wonderful ripeness, a leaner, and a more premier cru Chablis-like style than the Three Jacks and Stone Cote cuvées. It should drink well for 5-7 years."

HARTFORD 2012 PINOT NOIR RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
$27.95 [228860]
It’s hard to find a better Russian River Valley Pinot Noir for the money than this one right here!  This bottling is a mélange of fruit from several key and distinct vineyards from across the valley.  In fact, much of this wine is comprised of barrels from their single-vineyard program!  Aromas of blackberries, boysenberry, nutmeg and smoke are followed by flavors of Bing cherries, wild raspberries, roasted plum and allspice. A compelling & dense entry followed by a sweet and juicy mouthfeel is supported by balanced acidity, fine grain tannins and an intriguingly complex finish.


HARTFORD 2012 PINOT NOIR “HAILEY’S” SONOMA COAST
$65.95 [228850]
ROBERT PARKER 96 POINTS! – “The 2012 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block comes from a cold, windy area in Green Valley. In reality, it is a sub-portion of the Arrendell Vineyard. The wine, which sees 44% new French oak, possesses stunning intensity as well as notes of spring flowers, raspberries, wild strawberries and sweet black cherries, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and a broad, savory richness. Drink 2015-2025."

HARTFORD 2012 ZINFANDEL “OLD VINE”
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $29.99 [228810]
ROBERT PARKER 91 POINTS! – “The 2012 Zinfandel Russian River, their largest production cuvee (over 2,500 cases), was aged in 20% new French oak for nine months, then bottled unfined and unfiltered. It tips the scales at 15% alcohol. It exhibits an opaque blue/purple color along with plenty of briery, berry fruit intermixed with hints of incense, Christmas fruitcake and spice. This exuberant, richly fruity, full-bodied Zin can be drunk over the next 4-5 years.”

Château Font du Loup Châteauneuf-du-Pape

by Josh Hoover

Located at one of the highest points in Châteaneuf-du-Pape, Château Font du Loup, which translates to 'fountain of the wolves', is named after the natural springs in the area where the wolves would come to drink on their way to the planes. There is even a statue of a wolf drinking from their fountain right in the courtyard in front of the Château. Font du Loup has been in the Melia family since 1942 and is now run by the extremely charming Anne Charlotte Melia-Bachas with her husband and the help of consultant Philippe Cambie. Standing in the vineyard outside the château, the Mistral (the famous wind of the Rhône Valley) is strong enough to knock you over. Font du Loup has roughly 50 acres (organically farmed), including holdings in the La Crau and Font du Loup vineyards, and is planted on mostly sandy soil with vines that reach 100 years old. 

I fell in love with the wines of Font du Loup the first time I tasted them-- and was even more enamored when I was told how much they sell for. I visited the Château in the spring of 2012 and was treated to a wonderful tour and tasting with Anne Charlotte. She took me through the vineyards adjacent to the Château (so I could feel the power of the Mistral first hand) then guided me down one of the most dangerous sets of spiral staircases I have ever been down, into the cellar where all the barrels and tanks hold the wines for aging. 

After the tour we headed to a small tasting room and tasted through the current lineup of Font du Loup. I don’t remember exactly which vintages we tasted (must have misplaced my notes) but I do remember they were all very fine, elegant and flat-out delicious wines. When we finished up, both of us needing to get to our next appointment, Anne Charlotte generously gifted me a bottle of 2007 Puy Rolland, a 100% Grenache from 100-year-old vines and a great vintage. I carried that bottle from stop to stop. From Châteauneuf-du-Pape thr Cornas, to Condrieu, into Lyon, up to Beaune and finally Chablis. Each stop making sure to take the bottle out of the car because it was extremely hot during my visit. I was determined to get this bottle back to the States and enjoy it with friends who would appreciate the journey it has taken and the amazing graceful qualities it possess. Then I rolled into Chablis. I was there to visit one of my favorite people in wine: Patrick Piuze. I don’t know what it is about Patrick but when we get together things somehow get blurry. I had totally lost all sight of my mission to preserve my bottle of Puy Rolland. After a few hours in the cellar and “tasting” with Patrick, we headed off to his house, where I was staying for the night. That is when I saw the horrific sight. The bottle that had traveled over 10 days and I don’t know how many miles, was in the back seat of the car leaking everywhere. I had lost. We opened it at Patrick’s to see if it was somehow still alive. It was not! Not one for wasting anything, Patrick used the cooked wine as part of the duck he made us for dinner…. Sad, so sad!

The reason I am going on and on about this bottle is because of how the story eventually ends. About a year or so after my visit, Anne Charlotte came to the states and visited Hi-Time. I told her the story I just told above. I was very embarrassed to tell her I had cooked the wine and it was used for sauce. She promptly turned to her supplier and friend Jerome Brenot and said something in French. Two weeks later a package arrived for me. It was a replacement bottle of 2007 Puy Rolland. That just speaks to the generosity and truly caring nature of Anne Charlotte and it shines through in every bottle of wine she and her team produces. 

Whether it's a great score or a great story you're looking for in a wine, Font Du Loup delivers on both accounts. The wines are made in an elegant, pure, pretty style and are as warm and inviting as the good folks making and selling them.

CHÂTEAU FONT DU LOUP 2013 CÔTES DU RHÔNE $19.99 [334199]

The 2013 Côtes du Rhône from Font du Loup is medium ruby in color. Red and black fruits greet the nose along with lavender floral notes. On the palate, the wine is dry, medium-bodied and fresh with silky smooth tannins. Black cherry liqueur, ripe black plum and black raspberry flavors linger in this satisfying Southern Rhône blend, which exhibits considerable elegance and finesse.

CHÂTEAU FONT DU LOUP 2012 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE
$39.99 [334088]

eROBERT PARKER 92 POINTS: "Font du Loup’s 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a gorgeous blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault that’s almost all from the sandy plots in the La Crau lieu-dit. Aged 18 months in foudre, it exhibits notions of kirsch, dusty soils, garrigue and dried flowers in its medium-bodied, elegant, seamless and decidedly polished, feminine style. Showing the silky tannin that’s common from sandy soils, this beauty will dish out loads of pleasure through 2022."

CHÂTEAU FONT DU LOUP 2012 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE PUY ROLLAND 100% GRENACHE-100 YEAR OLD VINES $46.99 [334089]

eROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS: "Coming from the eastern part of La Crau (more toward Vieux Telegraph) and 100-year-old Grenache vines, the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Puy Rolland was completely destemmed and brought up all in foudre. It boasts thrilling notes of kirsch, orange blossom, dried flowers, sea breeze and dusty soil on the nose. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied wine that has beautiful concentration, ultra-fine tannin and a seamless, silky texture that keeps you coming back to the glass. Given its overall polish and balance, it’s a joy to drink even now, yet should hit its stride in another 2-4 years and have 15+ years of overall longevity."