Dining With Wines From Jorge Ordóñez

by Gary Faust

Working at Hi-Time certainly has its advantages and its perks! Last Wednesday (2/18), several members of the wine staff participated in exclusive training provided by Jack Guinan from Jorge Ordóñez wines at the newly renovated Water Table restaurant at the Huntington Beach Hyatt. The restaurant and resort are first-rate, by the way, and the staff provided great service. John Hickey from Henry Wine Group made the arrangements and facilitated the evening. We were treated to delicious appetizers, great food and a sampling of thirty wines from the Jorge Ordóñez collection. We know it’s tough work, but somebody has to do it!

When this special event for Hi-Time staff was proposed, we were excited as we have long been fans of these wines. Jorge Ordóñez is something of a modern day pioneer who recognized that the combination of soil, altitude, weather and indeed terroir make Spain a region with unlimited potential for producing world class wines.

In particular, Ordóñez sought to elevate the quality of Spanish winemaking. He also re-discovered largely ignored and under-appreciated vineyards in several regions of Spain. He challenged the American palate by being the first to introduce what were then exotic varietals such as Albariño, Txakoli and Godello. He partnered with talented winemakers and introduced San Vicente, Moncayo, Remirez de Ganuza, Muga, El Nido “Clio” and Emilio Moro to the world along with many other noteworthy wines. Before long, Americans became aware of regions such as Ribera Del Duero, Rias Baixas, Jumilla and Montsant.

Ordóñez is a tremendous creative force who continues to innovate, producing exceptional Spanish wines which are authentic, yet in line with modern taste sensibilities. His wines have earned a place alongside the fine wines of Europe and America.

We began by sampling Cava sparkling wine as Jack provided information on Spanish appellations, topography, grape varietals, styles and food pairings. We moved through clean and crisp white wines made from Verdejo, Albariño and Godello and even a surprisingly versatile dry Muscat, which would pair well with sushi and various fish dishes. In fact, all the white wines were very food-friendly and paired nicely with the scallops, flat bread and herb-roasted potatoes, which were served as a prelude to the meal.

The photos of the vineyards were mesmerizing and it’s hard to believe vines can survive such difficult conditions. Most people don’t realize that Spain is a very mountainous country with an average elevation of almost 2000 feet. Most areas are also very dry, receiving minimal rainfall. This is essentially a high desert environment with arid soil, harsh conditions and huge fluctuations in temperature. For those in California, imagine growing wine in Joshua Tree! We saw vineyards blanketed in snow in the winter and gnarly old vines, some which were planted in the late 1800s, and have survived the scourge of phylloxera. We saw a myriad of soil types including sand, granite and limestone. The low-yielding vines produce grapes of great depth and concentration.

As we moved into red wines, it was great to rediscover old favorites and try new wines. From inexpensive Grenache, Tempranillo, Graciano and Monastrell to higher-priced and higher quality versions, it was great to try them all. There is no better way to learn the wines and be able to assist customers at the store. Some of the wines were remarkable with the filet mignon, creating that perfect union of flavors where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. The delicious wines kept on coming including names such as Volver, Breca, Tarima Hill, Triga, Vatan, Tres Picos, Ramirez de la Piscina, Muga and more.

Finally, we enjoyed two delicious dessert wines, which were quite different from each other. The Bodegas y Vinedos Botani Victoria #2 100% Moscatel de Alexandria was light on its feet, due to the balancing acidity. It went beautifully with the Sticky Toffee Pudding and was also excellent paired with blue cheese crumbles! Lastly, we savored the Alvear PX Sherry 1927, which was phenomenal on its own.

As you can see, it was a very enjoyable and productive night. How can you beat great food, company and wine in an informal yet informative setting? Thank you to Jack and John for the information and their efforts. Very nicely done and as I said, it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it!

Featured Wines:

Muga 2005 Prado Enea Gran Reserva $49.98 [301523]

Muga 2010 Reserva $23.98 [379330]

Bodegas Volver 2012 Triga $34.99 [382919]

Borsao 2012 Tres Picos $12.99 [306230]

Bodegas Jorge Ordóñez S. L. 2012
Vatan Tinto De Toro $34.98 [382655]

Breca 2012 Garnacha $13.98 [380258]

Alto Moncayo 2012 Veraton $24.99 [378524]

Bodegas Ordóñez 2011 Zerran [381005]