PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO

by Gary Faust

Patty Quick and I were fortunate to attend the world premiere tasting of the 2011 single vineyard “crus” of the great Barbaresco producer, Produttori del Barbaresco. Produttori is well known for their excellent and affordable Barbaresco, which is a blend of the fruit from their different vineyards. Over the years, they have garnered attention for their Crus, which are smaller in production and show considerable differences.

Produttori del Barbaresco was founded in 1958 by a priest in the village of Barbaresco who believed the only way the farmers could survive was by joining together. Initially, 19 farmers working small plots of land formed the cooperative. The group has now grown to 54 members and 250 acres of Nebbiolo vineyards in Barbaresco. Each member has full control of their vineyard and collectively they have raised the stature of the appellation.




Many years of working the land and making wine led them to appreciate differences inherent in each of the vineyards. They recognized differing soils, sun exposure and micro-climates produced wines with significant differences. Think of a large family with 9 children. There are definitely familial traits, but each has their own unique personality. This essentially is the concept of the single crus which Produttori began bottling in 1967. Since then, each has achieved DOCG status which is the highest recognition under Italian appellation law.

We learned that each farmer brings their harvest to town where the grapes are carefully inspected and the farmers are paid according to the quality of the grapes as opposed to the yield. This encourages the farmers to focus on quality, not quantity. Each bottle is numbered and the farmers who provided grapes for each cru are listed on their respective bottles. This is pretty cool and shows the importance given to the grapes themselves. It was a treat to try each of the wines and learn more about their differences.

It was great to taste through the lineup and discover the differences amongst the each of the crus. Honestly, they were all delicious and we are fortunate to have several of the bottlings available at the store. Below are some of our observations as well as reviews of the wines we brought into the store.

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 "PAJE" $49.98 #303196

"Paje" is a small vineyard located in a sloped amphitheater with limestone soils. The wines here are known for having a combination of pronounced tannins and finesse and elegance that come together with a bit of cellaring.

ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 95 POINTS - "One of the highlights in this range, the 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is also one of the most classic of these 2011 Riservas. Beams of underlying acidity and minerality give the flavors considerable thrust and brightness. Sweet mentholated notes wrap around a core of plush, red-fleshed plum and pomegranate fruit, leading to a brisk, refreshing finish. What is left to say? The 2011 Pajè is absolutely gorgeous. It's as simple as that. Pajè is one of the cooler micro-climates the Produttori work with, and that was a help in 2011."

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 "ASILI" $49.98 #303192

Wines produced from “Asili” are prized for their elegance, charm and overall finesse. They are slightly lighter in color and express their terroir with great personality as they age. The sweet lifted fruit and silkiness of the wine make this really irresistible.

ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 95 POINTS - "The 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is one of the most refined wines in this range. Here the fruit shows more distinctly red-toned notes, with plenty of Asili creaminess, silkiness and overall texture, not to mention considerable density. There is plenty of Asili sexiness and radiance, but at the same time, there is also more tannin and overall brightness than I expected. Not that those things are bad. Far from it. I imagine the 2011 will reward readers with many years of exceptional drinking. This is one of the most polished wines in the range of 2011 Riservas. Then again, it's Asili."

Wines produced from “Asili” are prized for their elegance, charm and overall finesse. They are slightly lighter in color and express their terroir with great personality as they age. The sweet lifted fruit and silkiness of the wine make this really irresistible.

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 "OVELLO" $49.98 #303194

Ovello is the northernmost vineyard in the village of Barbaresco and is influenced by the nearby Tanaro River. The calcareous soils are rich in clay. The clay and cool microclimate imparts these wines with rich fruit, fresh aromas and flavors along with moderated tannins. Skilled vineyard work is the key here.

ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 94+ POINTS - "The 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello, from one of the coolest zones in Barbaresco, is superb. Here it is the wine's precision and energy - both hard to come by in 2011 - that really stand out. Pine, mint, chalk, bright red berries, blood orange and white pepper are some of the signatures in a brilliant, finely-cut Barbaresco that captures the best of both the vintage and this site. Don't miss it!"

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 "RABAJA" $49.98 #302432

The Rabajà vineyard lies at the conjunction of two main ridges that form the Barbaresco village. The combination of two soils and its warm southwest exposure give Rabajà its incredible complexity, darker fruit profile and richness.

ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 95+ POINTS - "The 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is quite backward today, with intense, salivating tannins that cut through the fruit. The trademark Rabajà balsamic flavor profile is there, with notable darkness and plenty of structure that add complexity to a core of crystalline fruit. Energetic and powerful, with searing tannin and exceptional balance, the Rabajà is going to require considerable patience. The only question is how much."

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2011 MONTEFICO $49.98 #303197
ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 95 POINTS - "The 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is another of the highlights in this range from the Produttori. Imagine the precision of Ovello, but with slightly darker fruit and more density and power through the middle. That's the Montefico. A regal, towering Barbaresco, the Montefico should provide thrilling drinking for the next several decades. A rush of dark cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and tobacco add nuance on the powerful, structured finish."

Quick Sips: Produttori Del Barbaresco

by Gary Faust

Gary, alongside our Italian wine buyer Patty Quick, had a chance to try some excellent Italian wines: "Tasting the 2011 single vineyard crus from Produttori Del Barbaresco. All wines Vinified in the same manner, but each has its own personality due to soil, aspect, etc."

Quick Sips: Gaja!

On Tuesday we were fortunate to taste the amazing wines of the renowned Italian producer, Gaja!  Although primarily known for his iconic Barbarescos, we enjoyed trying the Brunello and Tuscan wines as well.  They were tasty!  Playing the role of photo-bomber, the Il Poggione Brunello snuck in and is pictured third from left.

-Gary Faust

Italy: Cascina Luisin

1913 marked the inaugural vintage for Luigi Minuto thus forming Cascina Luisin. This set up the Minuto family to become one of the oldest wine making families in Barbaresco.  Not only are they one of the oldest, but they were the first to bottle and sell wine on a commercial level in the early 1930s.  It is important to remember that unlike other regions in Italy, Piedmont has a very short history with quality wine making.  Post WWII gave rise to the quality we have come to expect from the Barbaresco and Barolo.  The names Minuto and Gaja are the first brought up when discussing the historical producers who paved the way.  

Today Luigi’s great grandson, Luigi, who is now in his seventies continues on the family winemaking tradition with his son Roberto.  The winery was named by Roberto’s great grandfather for his grandfather Luigi.  Roberto is 7th generation to make wine, the 4th to live under the same roof to which the winery is attached by a small patio that looks out over the Rabajà vineyard.  The family philosophy is meticulous vineyard care and they hold great respect for upholding traditional winemaking practices in the winery. 

The wines of Cascina Luisin are well known for their accessibility in their youth with great core fruit that holds up well and evolves with age.  

Barbera d’Alba Maggiur 2012 $16.95 [302904]

Maggiur lies within the greater Asili vineyard.  It is indisputably one of the greatest.  Maggiur receives more hours of sunshine than any other location in the vineyard leading to greater ripeness and maturity in the finished wine.  It is nothing short of a miracle that these vines, planted by Robert’s grandfather almost 60 years ago, have not been grubbed up and replanted to Nebbiolo.  

The wine is fermented in stainless steel then aged in a mixture of barrique and tonneaux for a total of 12 months.  The wine is full of exuberant red fruit.  Fresh raspberries and chocolate covered bing cherries harmoniously mingle with a slight vanilla spice of oak and the flowery freshness we expect from Barbera. 

 

Langhe Nebbiolo Maggiur 2012 $19.95 [302805]

These 80-year-old vines are planted next to the Barbera in Asili.  Being less than 50 meters from the boundary line of Barbaresco you get an incredible “bang for your buck” with this wine.  

Fermentation in cement tanks softens the wine and allows for a more gentle extraction of tannins while lending a unique texture.  The wine is then aged in tonneaux for 12 months.  The wine is a shining example of Nebbiolo.  Bright and fresh with notes of sweet tar and rose petals opening to reveal cassis and spice.  

Barbaresco Rabajà 2010 $54.95 [302906]

The Rabajà vineyard is with out a doubt the most historically significant vineyard with the most prestige in all of Barbaresco.  The vineyard faces west towards the Rio Tanaro.  This is literally the Minuto’s backyard.  

Cascina Luisin harvests just one hectare of the clay rich Rabajà. Yielding just around 350 cases per vintage.  The wine spends 20 days in cement during primary fermentation then is transferred to large format barrels ranging in size between 20-50 hl.   This wine is known for its great elegance and austerity of classic Nebbiolo displaying delicate fruit and age worthy tannins.  

 

Barbaresco Sori Paolin 2010 $54.95 [302504]

Sori Paolin is the best plot within the Basarin Vineyard.  A steep, sandy south facing vineyard.  In comparison to Rabajà, Sori Paolin has much richer and deeper core fruit with a slightly heavier tannic structure.  

Sori Paolin is made exactly the same as Rabajà.  Primary fermentation takes place over the course of about 20 days, then the wine is laid to rest in oak for two years.  

Cheers!