Italian Winemaker Alessandro Cellai Visits Hi-Time

by Gary Faust
 
It was quite an honor to welcome Italian winemaker, Alessandro Cellai to Hi Time Wine Cellars. He is quite versatile and talented, producing wine from two estates with two very different terroirs.

From Sicily, the Feudi del Pisciotto estate showcases some of the island’s native varietals as well as some “international varietals.” Cellai believes three indigenous grapes from Sicily show the character of the island and what is possible in this unique micro-climate. The Grillo, Nero d'Avola and Frappato are excellent examples of wine with true Sicilian character.

Feudi del Pisciotto includes what is probably the greatest intact example of a gravity-fed winery. Incredibly, this was used by the ancient Romans and Greeks who knew a thing or two about making wine. Photos of the interior of this historic building are amazing. Today, many winemakers are building gravity-fed winemaking facilities, an acknowledgement that the process is still very relevant and results in gentle and efficient handling of their grapes and wine.

The bottles of Feudi del Pisciotto have labels featuring the artwork of prominent Italian designers including Versace and Valentino. The artists agreed to allow use of their art as a portion of the sales go toward the renovation and restoration of historic Sicilian art and culture. In tasting through the lineup, we found the wines were expressive, delicious and surprisingly affordable. The designer series wines are shown on the right side of the photo included in this blog (at the top of the page).

We also tasted the Rocca Di Frassinello wines from the appellation of Maremma in Tuscany. Rocca Di Frassinello is a unique joint venture of two incredible producers coming together to craft wine in the rolling hills of Tuscany. The parties involved are Castellare di Castellina from Chianti and the legendary Bordeaux producer Lafite-Rothschild. Their Rocca di Frassinello project couples Castellare’s experience in growing Sangiovese with Lafite’s experience growing classic French varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Rocca Di Frassinello showcases a stunning winery, most of which is built underground. The modern looking facility contains the largest barrel room in the world. The impressive structure is often host to recitals and performances.

The character of the wine is different than many other expressions of Tuscany such as Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and Nobile Di Montepulciano. These Super Tuscans feature Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. They are rich, full-bodied wines which give great pleasure!

The Poggio alla Guardia is an over-achiever, which was our Wine of the Month 2 last July. The 2012 is even better than the 2011 so we will be bringing it into the store in a big way. All the wines from this winery were full-bodied with rich, ripe fruit and smooth tannins.

What a treat it was to spend time with such a talented winemaker. Alessandro was very generous with his time and knowledge. His wines from two very different regions share one common trait- they’re fantastic!

Wine of the Month 2: A Fantastic Sicilian Red

Vivera Terre Siciliane Terra dei Sogni 2012 $16.95 [301144]
by Tobin Sharp

"Corleone. My Corleone, green vineyards and hot sun. There is no other place in the world with this beauty. A beauty somehow misunderstood and hidden, that my husband and I want to express through the wine we make, in an embrace that can tell a different story of Sicily, through the language of its flavor and its smells." -Armida Vivera

Terra dei Sogni is a young wine, fresh and natural, a bold blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from a vineyard of clay in Corleone, wedded to the mineral and fruity Nerello Cappuccio variety from Martinella, on the Etna. Terra dei Sogni is the land from which the wine is born: dreamt, grown and made to excite emotions and enchantment.

We knew when we tasted it that it was a clear winner for the Wine of the Month 2 slot. The nose was sexy, sultry and sweet with shades of berries and plums, smoky mineral and grilled bacon, incense, charcuterie and dark florals. The palate is lush with a viscous mouthfeel and tons of fruit flavors, echoing the nose: sweet berries, red plums, sun-dried cherries. Vivid minerality and a touch of red licorice are uplifted by brisk acidity and subtle tannins. Lovely in Springtime, perfect for Summer.

WINE SPECTATOR 90 POINTS: "Finely balanced, this medium- to full-bodied red integrates supple tannins, with a lovely range of ripe black currant and mulberry fruit, accented by tarry mineral, grilled herb, licorice drop and mocha hints that linger on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Nerello Cappuccio. Drink now through 2025. 2,667 cases made."