by Gary Faust
The wines of Campania are not always on the radar for wine drinkers, but they should be. Wines from this region are distinctive and the best examples focus on varietals indigenous to the area. Great examples can be found in the wines of Terredora di Paolo. They have become a staple at Hi-Time and demonstrate the heights which wines from Southern Italy can achieve. No discussion of wines from Campania is complete without recognizing the important contributions of the Mastroberardino family.
We recently had the opportunity to sit down with Daniela Mastroberardino to discuss and enjoy the wines of Terredora di Paolo. Chatting over a leisurely lunch, Daniela said Terredora di Paolo focused on rediscovering and restoring Campania’s ancient and native varietals such as Aglianico, Fiano, Greco and Piedrosso. These varietals are key players that have brought about Campania’s wine renaissance and have inspired a qualitative revolution. Campania is a beautiful region in southern Italy known for its famous cities of Naples and Sorrento, as well as the Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri. Nestled inland, the Mastroberardino family’s vineyards have taken these wonderful indigenous grapes and elevated them into wine worthy of seeking out.
The wines exhibit a distinctive personality due to the unique microclimate. The climate is Mediterranean along the coast, but becomes more continental in the interior, especially in the hilly and mountainous area as the altitude increases. The days are sunny, which aids in ripening the grapes while the cool nights help maintain acidity. The altitude, volcanic soil and climate yields wines that are intense yet elegant with complex bouquets.
As we progressed through lunch, it became apparent that the wines of Terredora di Paolo are distinctive, food friendly wines. They definitely paired well with the cuisine of Cucina Enoteca. If you have not dined at their Fashion Island or Irvine Spectrum restaurant, you owe it to yourself to do so. The food is fantastic and very flavorful.
The Fiano di Avellino Campo Re is a white wine that is so versatile, going beautifully with the burrata and prosciutto as well as the grilled octopus. Located on the slopes of Mt. Vesuvius near Naples, the vineyard name “Campo Re” means royal vineyard and it’s arguably the most famous single site in Campania for the famed DOCGs of Taurasi and Fiano di Avellino. The Campo Re is a complex and compelling wine.
Next we tried wines made with the Aglianico grape. Aglianico is the primary grape of Southern Italy’s most famous wine region, Taurasi, and hails from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius outside of Naples. Sometimes referred to as the “Barolo of the South,” it is the latest ripening grape variety in Italy and often shows significant structure. Terredora’s Taurasi are great wines with impressive stature and ageability. These wines display a fantastic spicy and smoky volcanic minerality.
The Aglianico Campania IGT proved to be a delicious accompaniment to the meat-based dishes which were served. This is an accessible, crowd-pleasing version of Aglianico, which is not over-extracted and is made to be approachable upon release. It has a terrific sense of place and you really know you are drinking wine from the South of Italy.
The short rib with cremini mushrooms over pappardelle pasta was fantastic with the 2010 Taurasi. This also went well with other bold dishes such as the chef’s ragu over creamy mascarpone polenta and the lamb brasato. This wine could be considered the big brother of the previous wine, showcasing more power, breadth and depth.
The Lacryma Christi is a lesser known wine endowed with power and character. Made of 100% Piedrosso, ancient legend has it that God cried as he found a corner of heaven stolen by Lucifer. His tears fell near the Gulf of Naples and the vines that make comprise Lacryma Christi appeared. This wine had good structure and complexity and also paired well with the meat dishes we enjoyed at Cucina Enoteca.
Daniela Mastroberardino’s passion and commitment are evident and she is a great ambassador for Campania and Southern Italy as a whole. That passion is clearly reflected in the delicious wines she and her family craft. These wines are distinctive, worth seeking out and should definitely be on your radar.
This special single vineyard bottling shows creamy lemon-chiffon fruit with acacia and a mellow citrusy edge, like mandarin orange and bergamot. Elements of honey, nutmeg spice and toasty oak lend this Fiano a depth that reminds us of a fine white Burgundy. There is also plenty of volcanic minerality laced throughout the mid-palate sure to please the terroir hunters and purists.
TERREDORA 2012 AGLIANICO $12.95 [301006]
JAMES SUCKLING 93 POINTS - "A full-bodied red with dried-plum and berry aromas and flavors. Full body, velvety tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Read More...A Taurasi with balance and suppleness. Shows the soul of Campania. Drink now."
TERREDORA DIPAOLO 2010 TAURASI $26.98 [303406]
Intense ruby in color with garnet reflections. The nose is complex with aromas of black cherry, violet, spice, tar, tobacco and mineral notes. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and round with velvety tannins. Black cherry, plum, spice and smoky minerality linger on the long, flavorful finish. This wine will age well and is approachable with decanting.
TERREDORA 2011 LACRYMA CHRISTI ROSSO 100% PIEDROSSO $18.95 [302369]
100% Piedrosso and planted from ancient vines planted into the sides of dormant volcano Vesuvio it is aged 8 months in French barrels. It has a dark ruby color with a very ripe berry, cherry and liquorice aromas and flavors. Rounded with loads of spicy black pepper character, medium-full bodied with chewy tannins and a long finish. Great pairings would be spicy roast dishes of roast meats, pork, lamb and cheeses.
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