by Dan Williams
Another benefit of this auction is the fact that most of these wines are barrel samples. In this year’s case, the majority of the 200+ wines were from the 2014 vintage. So we get a chance to taste over 200 wines from producers up and down the valley. This gives us the ability to let YOU, our loyal customers, know if the vintage one or two years down the road is a vintage you avoid, or max out your cards for the next “vintage of a lifetime”! No, but seriously, don’t max out your cards... be responsible.
In regards to Cabernet Sauvignon, since Cab is king in Napa, here is my take on the current and upcoming vintages.
2012 – Delicious wines from a vintage that’s hard to pass up.
As I stated last year, there was no drastic news about this vintage. Mother nature played nice; there weren’t scorching hot spells just before harvest, no upcoming rains that rushed picking, no problems during the flowering and bloom in the spring to mess yields. There was no news. This meant that wineries could pick grapes when they wanted, when grapes were at optimum maturity, with optimum flavors.
The resulting 2012 Cabernets are complex wines with good aromatics, generous fruit profiles that seem to lean more along the red fruit spectrum (think cherries, raspberries, and currants), and integrated tannins. The majority of 2012s I have tasted are drinking very well right now, but should be able to cellar until an age of 10-20 years. They have put on more weight since last year, but I take that to mean that they may have more to show in the future. The only sad thing about the 2012s is that many of them are now sold out.
“During my Napa trip in February, I think the worst wine from the 2013 vintage I tasted was really, really good...that was the worst wine.” That’s what I wrote last year. Well this year, I tasted more from the 2013 vintage, and again nothing tasted less than really, really good!
I still feel that this is the greatest vintage of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon since I have been in the wine game, which was when the fantastic 1994s were being released. The 2013s represent everything you want in a Cabernet Sauvignon. They have opulent fruit (perhaps more along the black fruit spectrum like plums, black cherries, cassis) with wonderful aromatics, good structure in the way of fresh acidities and firm tannins, along with expansive and long-lasting finishes. Seriously... some of the finishes on these wines lasted well over a minute, with a few lasting 2-3 minutes... INCREDIBLE! This is a vintage that is going to be hard to top. I’m typically not fond when critics so loosely use the term “vintage of your lifetime”, but if I was going to use it... it might be for the 2013s.
2014 marks the 3rd vintage in a row where quality was high. Since last year, winemakers were beginning to speak proudly about their 2014 finished wines, and how they believed they were just as good as the 2012s. After tasting so many of them out of barrel, I feel that 2014 is another very good vintage. How good, though, is hard to tell. The wines were not shy on fruit, complexity, or nuance, but they are currently showing some hard tannins that overshadowed much of that the wines may have had to offer.
As of now, I feel this is a vintage that has the tannin of the 2006 vintage with the fruit of 2004. So, in essence, the real question here is going to be the tannins and how they integrate into the wines over the coming year. If they integrate, then this could, in fact, be just as good as 2012. Right now I’m calling the hierarchy of these vintages, starting with the best, as 2013, then 2012, followed by 2014.
Noteworthy Upcoming Releases
The majority of the Napa Valley Cabernets that coming out are from the glorious 2013 vintage. Below are some wines that should land in our store in the not too distant future. They are not listed in any particular order.
Memento Morii 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon – For the past few years, if this was not my number 1 wine of the trip, then it was still in the top 5! Adam, Adriel, Hayes, and winemaker Sam Kaplan are doing everything right, and everybody in the valley wants to drink this wine! They get fruit from some of the best vineyards in Napa, including Cabernet from a few of the Beckstoffer vineyards! Ripe, juicy black fruits with minerals and crème de cassis. This earned 97 points from Robert Parker.
Continuum 2013 Proprietary Red – This marks the first vintage for Tim Mondavi and his family where this wine is 100% estate grown, produced, and bottled. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon from their Pritchard Hill vineyard in the eastern mountains of the Napa Valley, this wine also has a good percentage of Cabernet Franc in the blend. When this was the case in older Opus One and Mondavi Reserve Cabernets, those were the vintages that always aged the best. This earned 97 points from Antonio Galloni. [ed. Carlo Mondavi stopped by our store last week to taste us (again!) on the 2013-- one of the top two or three wines Dan had on this trip]Pine Ridge 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – This wine never ceases to amaze me. It retails at our store for $51.98/bottle, but this easily competes with other Cabernets that sell for $100/bottle… no joke! The forward mix of black and blue fruit are balanced by pronounced yet velvety tannins, making this a wine that drinks well on its own, but I always felt a rib eye steak was this wine’s soul mate!
Pulido-Walker 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Panek Vineyard – Pulido-Walker has become one of the favorite wines our staff loves to sell, and after one taste you’ll know why! Mark Pulido, Donna Walker, and their winemaker Thomas Brown (who also makes Schrader and Rivers-Marie, among others), make this wine from the Panek Vineyard in St. Helena, a vineyard that is littered with rocks that help the vines' good water drainage, smaller berries, complex flavors, intense aromatics, and distinct texture. To me, this tasted like the quintessential Napa Valley Cabernet! This wine earned 96 points from Robert Parker.
Shafer 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select – One of the most revered Cabernet producers in Napa, and their 2012 Hillside Select from the Stags Leap District is my favorite wine they have produced since the prodigious 2002! Silky, plush red fruits mingle with crushed rocks, framboise, black cherries, plums, and hints of cocoa. I could drink the whole bottle by myself! This wine earned 98-100 points from Robert Parker.
Fontanella 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt Veeder – What more can we say about the Fontanella family that we haven’t already said! Jeff and Karen are two of the nicest people in the valley, and the wines they produce are knockouts! Sourced from the western mountains of the Napa area, Mt Veeder is known to produce grapes with intense flavors and nuance. Their 2012 Cabernet is just hitting our sales floor, and it is riddled with cherry, raspberry, plums, black currants, herbs, spice, velvety tannin, and hints of earth, vanilla, and a kiss of oak. The complexity for the money is envied by many, but since Jeff worked at ZD and Opus, you can see how he learned to get the best out of his grapes!
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