Château Font du Loup Châteauneuf-du-Pape

by Josh Hoover

Located at one of the highest points in Châteaneuf-du-Pape, Château Font du Loup, which translates to 'fountain of the wolves', is named after the natural springs in the area where the wolves would come to drink on their way to the planes. There is even a statue of a wolf drinking from their fountain right in the courtyard in front of the Château. Font du Loup has been in the Melia family since 1942 and is now run by the extremely charming Anne Charlotte Melia-Bachas with her husband and the help of consultant Philippe Cambie. Standing in the vineyard outside the château, the Mistral (the famous wind of the Rhône Valley) is strong enough to knock you over. Font du Loup has roughly 50 acres (organically farmed), including holdings in the La Crau and Font du Loup vineyards, and is planted on mostly sandy soil with vines that reach 100 years old. 

I fell in love with the wines of Font du Loup the first time I tasted them-- and was even more enamored when I was told how much they sell for. I visited the Château in the spring of 2012 and was treated to a wonderful tour and tasting with Anne Charlotte. She took me through the vineyards adjacent to the Château (so I could feel the power of the Mistral first hand) then guided me down one of the most dangerous sets of spiral staircases I have ever been down, into the cellar where all the barrels and tanks hold the wines for aging. 

After the tour we headed to a small tasting room and tasted through the current lineup of Font du Loup. I don’t remember exactly which vintages we tasted (must have misplaced my notes) but I do remember they were all very fine, elegant and flat-out delicious wines. When we finished up, both of us needing to get to our next appointment, Anne Charlotte generously gifted me a bottle of 2007 Puy Rolland, a 100% Grenache from 100-year-old vines and a great vintage. I carried that bottle from stop to stop. From Châteauneuf-du-Pape thr Cornas, to Condrieu, into Lyon, up to Beaune and finally Chablis. Each stop making sure to take the bottle out of the car because it was extremely hot during my visit. I was determined to get this bottle back to the States and enjoy it with friends who would appreciate the journey it has taken and the amazing graceful qualities it possess. Then I rolled into Chablis. I was there to visit one of my favorite people in wine: Patrick Piuze. I don’t know what it is about Patrick but when we get together things somehow get blurry. I had totally lost all sight of my mission to preserve my bottle of Puy Rolland. After a few hours in the cellar and “tasting” with Patrick, we headed off to his house, where I was staying for the night. That is when I saw the horrific sight. The bottle that had traveled over 10 days and I don’t know how many miles, was in the back seat of the car leaking everywhere. I had lost. We opened it at Patrick’s to see if it was somehow still alive. It was not! Not one for wasting anything, Patrick used the cooked wine as part of the duck he made us for dinner…. Sad, so sad!

The reason I am going on and on about this bottle is because of how the story eventually ends. About a year or so after my visit, Anne Charlotte came to the states and visited Hi-Time. I told her the story I just told above. I was very embarrassed to tell her I had cooked the wine and it was used for sauce. She promptly turned to her supplier and friend Jerome Brenot and said something in French. Two weeks later a package arrived for me. It was a replacement bottle of 2007 Puy Rolland. That just speaks to the generosity and truly caring nature of Anne Charlotte and it shines through in every bottle of wine she and her team produces. 

Whether it's a great score or a great story you're looking for in a wine, Font Du Loup delivers on both accounts. The wines are made in an elegant, pure, pretty style and are as warm and inviting as the good folks making and selling them.

CHÂTEAU FONT DU LOUP 2013 CÔTES DU RHÔNE $19.99 [334199]

The 2013 Côtes du Rhône from Font du Loup is medium ruby in color. Red and black fruits greet the nose along with lavender floral notes. On the palate, the wine is dry, medium-bodied and fresh with silky smooth tannins. Black cherry liqueur, ripe black plum and black raspberry flavors linger in this satisfying Southern Rhône blend, which exhibits considerable elegance and finesse.

CHÂTEAU FONT DU LOUP 2012 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE
$39.99 [334088]

eROBERT PARKER 92 POINTS: "Font du Loup’s 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a gorgeous blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault that’s almost all from the sandy plots in the La Crau lieu-dit. Aged 18 months in foudre, it exhibits notions of kirsch, dusty soils, garrigue and dried flowers in its medium-bodied, elegant, seamless and decidedly polished, feminine style. Showing the silky tannin that’s common from sandy soils, this beauty will dish out loads of pleasure through 2022."

CHÂTEAU FONT DU LOUP 2012 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE PUY ROLLAND 100% GRENACHE-100 YEAR OLD VINES $46.99 [334089]

eROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS: "Coming from the eastern part of La Crau (more toward Vieux Telegraph) and 100-year-old Grenache vines, the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Puy Rolland was completely destemmed and brought up all in foudre. It boasts thrilling notes of kirsch, orange blossom, dried flowers, sea breeze and dusty soil on the nose. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied wine that has beautiful concentration, ultra-fine tannin and a seamless, silky texture that keeps you coming back to the glass. Given its overall polish and balance, it’s a joy to drink even now, yet should hit its stride in another 2-4 years and have 15+ years of overall longevity."