Classic Cocktails: The Sidecar

The Sidecar

by Michael Frank

The Sidecar cocktail is by far one of most memorable cocktails to come out of American Prohibition. It brings to the table an elegant yet fruit-forward flavor profile that’s complemented by a naturally high acid content. While it goes best with a salty snack, it also makes a perfect aperitif or an aperitivo-- especially with large fatty, rich meals. With all the fruit juice that goes into it, some are deceived into expecting a sweet, easy-to-drink cocktail. Don’t let it fool you though; If you do try to gulp it down you’ll end up coughing. This is a concoction of complexity and power that is designed to be savored and enjoyed patiently.

The common belief is that the sidecar cocktail is named after those funny little attachments that people can put on the side of a motorcycle for a passenger. Another theory as to the origin of the name is that it’s named after a sidecar shot. A shot of sidecar is something you probably won’t see in any first world bars in our modern era. In short, a sidecar shot is when the bartender takes his barmat and dumps whatever liquid has accumulated into a shot glass. It saves on product cost and people love it. In my last bar we did this all the time and believe it or not, it actually doesn’t usually taste half bad.

The lore reads that it was invented by a wounded army field captain that rode between a bar and his encampment in a sidecar during the battles of World War I. Sounds like a tall tale to me, but hey-- good stories sell drinks. 

The actual origin of the cocktail is traced back to the Ritz Carlton of Paris in 1922 and the American refugee bartender Harry MacElhone. Of course, this is a matter of some debate and some would attribute the original mixture to Robert Vermeire who published his book “Cocktails and How to Mix Them” the same year.

The original recipe calls for equal parts Congac, Triple Sec and Lemon Juice. I prefer a take on the more modern and popular version from Harry Craddock’s 1930 "Savoy Cocktail Book." My recipe for this cocktail follows that 1930s tradition while utilizing classic liquor selections and some “relatively” new mixology techniques. You will need the following:

For bar tools…

Jigger 666444

Beehive Juicer 106266

18oz weighted shaker 644344

28oz weighted shaker 678987

Hawthorne strainer 643543

Martini glass 703622

For consumables…

Camus Borderies VSOP Cognac 102722

Cointrieu 106340

Lemons

Step 1

Start by adding 3 ounces of Cognac.

Cognac is really the star of this cocktail and despite all the heavy sugars and citrus we’re building on top of it, we really want that original essence to shine through in all its glory. For this I wouldn’t select anything too elegant or smooth. I’m not suggesting the use of poor quality brandy either though, what we want is something with just a little bit of spice and bite. For me, I like to use Camus Borderies VSOP because of the unique baking spice characteristics that come through on the nose and palate as well as its long and bold finish.

Feel free to swap out and have fun with and other brandy, as well, even if it’s not Cognac. One of the primary factors in the difference between a brandy and a Cognac is that Cognac comes from Cognac, France, and has its own AOC (Appellation d'origine contrôlee, the French certification granted to certain French geographical indications for wines, spirits, cheeses, butters and other agricultural products). Even if someone somewhere else were to make the same spirit with the same grapes in let’s say Bordeaux, it could only be called brandy. One of my favorite substitutions is Spanish brandy such as Torres 10.

Step 2

Add 1 ounce of Cointreau.

I like to use Cointreau because it’s the most orange-y of all the orange liqueurs, also it's not overly sweet. You can use triple sec too, if you like, but keep in mind it will make things sweeter.

Step 3

Squeeze 1 ounce of fresh lemon juice into your jigger. Don’t do this over the shaker as it will make it hard to keep things accurate. When your jigger is full, dump the fresh squeezed lemon juice into your shaking tin.

Step 4

Fill your other shaker with ice, put the two together and shake the heck out of it! Make sure you hold both cups securely, we want this cocktail “in” you and your guests, not “on” you. When shaking, shake back and forth between the two bottoms of the cups to give it the best chance of marrying the ingredients. Do this for about 30 seconds. Don’t be shy, give it all you’ve got!

Step 5

Get your martini glass ready. Tap the two conjoined metal cups gently on the edge of your bar (or anywhere else) to break the vacuum seal you created. Take your hawthorn strainer, place it over the cup and carefully pour everything into your glass.

Step 6

Enjoy! Another technique you might want to try out would be putting it through a netted strainer on it’s way into the glass, this will give it a whole new mouthfeel. Also, feel free to swap out the base liquor. I made one recently with a heavily peated Scotch and it was great. Another option is to use different citrus: kumquats, maybe? Most importantly, have fun and experiment. The worst case scenario is that you’ll have to make another drink.

May your cocktail adventures be glorious!

Sidecar photo: foodspotting.com

Whisky Live: Los Angeles 2015 - 11/6/15

Whisky Live is this Friday, November 6th, at Loew's Hollywood Hotel up in LA, 6-10pm.  This is a great event for Whisky lovers of all stripes-- here are the main draws:

SAMPLE FROM OVER 150+ WHISKIES

VIP EXPERIENCE AREA

DELICIOUS DINNER BUFFET

MASTER CLASSES

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 

COMPLETE EVENING OUT

Use the code "LA2015" for a 15% discount on tickets.  For more info, visit whiskyliveusa.com or whiskylive.com.

The Golden Palate Update and Final Countdown Date

Our two semi-finals took place last month and we haven't done an update in a while...

Gabe Barakat was victorious over Gail Roberts in a highly contested match with an 18-16 score.  The top wine of the night ended up with a pair scoring the same, both selected by Gabe: O'Shaughnessy "Howell" 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon and Kobalt 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon. We also had a tie for the next most popular wines of the night-- another tie, both wines selected by Gail: Malartic Lagraviere 2010 Bordeaux Blanc and Cheval des Andes 2010 Malbec/Cab.

John Pate came out on top after matching wines with Dan Williams (who had knocked out last year's 'Golden Palate' Zach Korhonen in his previous match).  The top wines of the night ended with a triple tie for 1st place: William Fevre "Vaudesir" 2013 Chablis selected by John and Kamen 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon & Law "Sagacious" 2012 Rhône Blend selected by Dan.

Our 'final countdown' showdown for The Golden Palate will take place in December so we have a bit of a breather before the combatants enter our wine bar ring: Thursday, Dec. 10th, 4:30-8:30 p.m., $35.

123 Spirits: Awesome Organic Spirits

 

Eliott, our 123 Organic Tequila brand ambassador, stopped by the store today to re-taste the staff on their lineup of organic Tequilas: blanco, reposado, añejo and 110 proof El Luchador.  Across the board, the six of us who went through these four Tequilas thoroughly enjoyed them-- these are the real deal.

You can read the full story about these Tequilas on their websites: www.123tequila.com & www.elluchadortequila.com.

Some of the key factoids about these Tequilas: they are the vision of Tequilero David Ravandi, they are certified organic; the agave is grown at an elevation of 4200'; they are wild fermented; they source their water on their property to cut the spirit down to a lower proof; they use the same agave (basically, the Blanco is the 'mother' spirit) with the difference being the time aged in barrel.

Blanco - agave-rich nose, peppery, sweet on the palate, very clean.

Reposado - white pepper and cola berry on the nose, spice, earth, green peppercorn, pure agave in the mouth.

Añejo - sweet agave, cola berry, cinnamon in the nose; agave, sweet spice, earth, lengthy finish.

El Luchador - 110pr - fairly mild nose with delicate scents of earth, white pepper, slight sweetness; sweet agave and citrus notes (Meyer Lemon? Yuzu?), brief flash of heat mid-palate but really approachable for the proof.  Cocktails, for sure.

From Mount Etna, Italy: Cantina Benanti

by Gary Faust

Last month, Salvino Benanti visited Hi-Time to share his wines and talk about his passion for the wines of Mount Etna. The Benanti family has been growing grapes and caring for some of the island's oldest vines since the late 1890s. They sold their grapes for decades until Salvino’s father, Giuseppe, decided to indulge his passion and began making wine in 1988. At the time, most of the wine produced in Sicily was sold in bulk and was not of very high quality. Mr. Benanti believed in the potential of the region and knew the combination of minerality and climate from Mount Etna made the wines capable of greatness. He risked his own money, focused on indigenous grapes from the island and strove to increase the quality of wines produced there.

He believed he could make high quality, ageable, food-friendly wines, which could compete favorably with other wines of the world. Over the years, his vision has come to fruition. The white and red wines made by Benanti display a combination of character and elegance. In time, others from Etna have followed Giuseppe’s lead and established the reputation of Etna as one capable of producing excellent wines.

After Giuseppe passed, Salvino and his brother Antonio carried on, maintaining the traditional style while also instilling a more disciplined approach to ensure consistency. Salvino sees himself as an ambassador for Benanti, but also of Etna- so convinced is he of the quality.

Sicily is a land of extremes, with snow visible on the Mount Etna for 8-9 months out of the year while the sun shines on the coast near the azure waters. The slopes of Etna provide ideal conditions for grape growing. The days are sunny and warm and the nights are cool, creating diurnal temperature swings, which enable grapes to ripen slowly and retain aromatics and acidity. 

Over the years, the Benanti family has acquired several plots of land within the Etna DOC. Some of these parcels include old ungrafted vines, which have survived the scourge of phylloxera. The island’s unique volcanic soil and dryness have protected these vines and Etna can boast some of Europe's oldest vines. These old vines have very low yields with excellent concentration of flavors.

The oldest vineyard sits at the top of a hill overlooking the winery and contains vines which are more than 100 years old. These Carricante and Nerello Mascalese vines sit at about 450 meters of altitude on the southeast slopes of the volcano. This exposure means they tend to be warmer than the rest of Etna, leading Benanti to generally be the first to harvest grapes on the mountain each year. Most of the winery's vines are head-trained.
The grapes are fermented with native yeasts in steel tanks (for the whites) or large old oak vats (for the reds), then transferred to old oak barrels of varying sizes for aging. Benanti uses mostly two- and three-year-old French oak barrels. Despite the winery's small size, they are among the best known of Etna's producers thanks to being some of the earliest pioneers in Etna's relatively short modern history of wine production. The fact that they make great wine might also have something to do with it. Benanti was awarded Winery of the Year by leading Italian Wine Guide Gambero Rosso in 2007 and by Wine & Spirits Magazine in 2012.

We tasted through several wines with Salvino and found the Benanti wines to be delicious. The 2004 Serra della Contessa is definitely in a sweet spot in its perfect stage of evolution.

BENANTI 2004 SERRA DELLA CONTESSA $49.95 #301470
We are spellbound by the complexity of this perfectly aged wine from the historic Benanti family estate. This cuvee is composed primarily of Nerello Mascalese with a small amount of Nerello Cappuccio. Think of a hypothetical cross of Burgundian Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, which is vibrant and fresh at 11 years of age. As Salvino says, “These are elegant wines for elegant food and elegant people.” We agree wholeheartedly and know our customers will enjoy this tremendous food wine, which pairs exceptionally well with lamb, pork dishes, sausage or even pizza!

ROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS - "Benanti's 2004 Serra della Contessa is a showstopper. This blend of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio is made from 100-year old vines, many of which date to pre-phylloxera times. The wine is fermented in oak vats, then racked into French oak barrels for aging. It reveals notable intensity and purity in its expressive layers of ripe fruit, leather, minerals, menthol, licorice and smoke. Supple, finessed tannins frame the gorgeous finish. Today the wine is quite primary but in time it will likely develop into an ethereal beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016."

BENANTI 2010 PIETRAMARINA BIANCO SUPERIORE $46.98 #301366
Benanti allows PIETRAMARINA BIANCO SUPERIORE to rest on the lees after fermentation, imparting more complexity and fuller body. In a word, this wine was amazing, complex and capable of aging. This is an Italian white wine for lovers of white burgundy.

WINE ENTHUSIAST 95 POINTS - "This stunning, full-bodied wine is in the running as one of the best white wines in Italy. It’s perfumed with acacia flower, Spanish broom, beeswax, flint and tree fruit. The delicious palate delivers green apple, Anjou pear and mineral sensations of mesmerizing depth. It will develop even more complexity over time. Drink through 2025”



BENANTI 2010 ROVITTELLO ETNA ROSSO $39.98 #301373
WINE ADVOCATE 92 POINTS- “The 2010 Etna Rosso Rovittello is 80-20 -Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from the Contrada Rovittello on the north face of the volcano at 700 meters above sea level. Rovittello is a gorgeous wine with a long aging future ahead. There’s a degree of richness and plumpness that is rare to find in the generally austere red wines from Etna. Black cherry and black currants are backed by light touches of cinnamon and clove (it ages up to 12 months in used oak). Drink 2015-2026.”

ITALY: MONTALBERA 2013 RUCHE "LACCENTO"

by Gary Faust

One of the best things about working at Hi-Time is sifting through thousands upon thousands of wines each year before finally falling upon a real under-the-radar gem. That's exactly what happened a couple of years ago during a trip to Italy when we came upon this incredibly cool wine. We had never heard of Ruché, but once we tasted it we were stunned; it was unlike anything else we had ever tasted! We brought it into the store and our customers embraced it enthusiastically, turning this little known grape into one of our most popular Italian wines. Before we knew it, we were in the midst of a Ruché craze! We’re thrilled to announce the latest vintage of Ruché has arrived and the new vintage is every bit as good as previous vintages if not better! 

Ruché (roo-kay) is an Italian red wine varietal from the Piedmont region that is used in making Montalbera Ruché "Laccento." The appellation was elevated to DOCG status in 2010, which is the highest recognition of quality for Italian wines. The grape, referred to as “The Red Prince of Monferrato,” is one of the lowest production varietals in Italy with only about 150 acres being farmed. It has been grown in Piedmont for at least one hundred years but has only recently been marketed and consumed outside of the region.

Its modern popularity and renaissance can be attributed to an enlightened parish priest named Don Giacomo Cauda. When he arrived at Castagnole Monferrato in the 1970s, he found 10 rows of Ruché planted on the parish property. Struck by the characteristics of the variety, he became fascinated and fell in love with its quality, which was apparent in the grapes even while they were still on the vine. He began planting additional vines and championed Ruché to anyone who would listen. Don Cauda described the wine in one of his writings, “It has perfect body and balance of unique aromas, flavours and fragrances. When drunk in moderation, it liberates the spirit and opens up one’s mind.” We couldn’t agree more!

Long ago the local people used to consider Ruché a wine for celebrations and over time it acquired an aura of legend. This nectar in the collective imagination became the wine that accompanied the Astigiani troops in the Crusades.

The origin and name of this particular cultivar are unknown although there are many hypotheses. One is that it comes from San Rocco, a community of monks devoted to the saint who introduced its cultivation in that area. Others believe the name derives from the Piedmontese word "roche," referring to a vine grown in the areas protected by the Monferrato Hills. Recent studies and meticulous analysis of the vine and its features would seem to show that Ruché derives from the ancient vines of Haute-Savoie. The mystery of Ruché therefore remains unsolved, while the only certainty seems to be the feelings that always come with every sip. The charm and mystery of this wine are real with a taste so special and unique that it clearly stands out, making it a true gem of viticulture in this region.


MONTALBERA 2013 RUCHE "LACCENTO" $25.95 [302131]
The Montalbera 2013 Ruché "Laccento" received the coveted Tre Bicchieri (Three Glasses) award from the noted Italian wine magazine Gambero Rosso. It also received a Gold Medal at the Decanter Wine Awards. Famed Italian wine critic and author Luca Maroni has called this wine, “An absolute masterwork of nature, technique, humanity and pure passion..." and gave it a 99 point rating.

Medium ruby in color. The flavors one encounters are like taking a walk through a farmer’s market and filling your bag with a selection of fresh cherries, blueberries and blackberries. Next come Indian spices such as cardamom and nutmeg followed by a bouquet of violets and roses. On the palate, the wine is delicious and medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins. It pairs well with most foods including the often challenging Asian-inspired dishes and is tremendous on its own.

LUCA MARONI 99 POINTS - "It is thanks to the vintage’s warmth, but also to the reduced yield and the selective viticulture that for its first time the Ruchè donates such a fleshy thickness. Tannins are pronounced enough to evolve those strawberries you get on the nose and to the taste assuming the sublime fleshiness of a blackberry. The aroma’s masculinity increases in volume, no damage being done to the fruit’s wonderful smoothness, striped in sweetness and veins of forest berries which are integral and sharp to the olfaction just like still in the raw. The taste’s balance gives harmonious softness counterpointed by tannic savory and corroborated by mineral salinity. This is truly a wine which viticultural and oenological value is sublime; it is a naturalistic and technical creation whose analytical merit appeals universally to the senses."

Burgundy: Domaine Joseph Roty

by Gary Faust

In Burgundy, there are excellent wines made from renowned terroir, noteworthy negociants and then there is Domaine Joseph Roty. Joseph was a man known for being obstinate, eccentric and a perfectionist dedicated to the craft of winemaking. Because of these familial traits, the domaine has preserved and passed down their winemaking tradition through 11 successive generations. It’s incredible to think the Rotys have been making wine in Gevrey since the time of Louis XIV, farming the same plot of land for over 300 years. Joseph Roty passed away in 2008 and the domaine is now in the capable hands of his son, Philippe, who makes wine in the manner of his father. In fact, Philippe is now producing several outstanding wines under his name as well.

The domaine’s approach can be described as being very hands-on. They are fastidious in the treatment of the vines, refusing to use insecticide, herbicides or chemicals for fertilization. An inordinate amount of time is spent amongst the vines, paying attention to the smallest of details and continuously assessing the health of the vines and grapes. The vines are very old and even the basic Bourgogne bottles include grapes from vines aged more than 60 years. Some of the grapes from the premier cru and grand cru wines comes from vines that are more than 100 years old.

Domaine Roty’s winemaking style is also quite distinctive. First, Philippe examines and tastes grapes from each batch to verify phenolic ripeness and quality of the fruit. After a severe triage, sorting through the grapes to eliminate the sub-standard fruit, there is a weeklong cold soaking before the fermentation is allowed to commence at a low temperature. Their style is to extract more color, tannin and phenolic compounds than their peers, before aging the wine in oak casks made to their exacting standards.

Also unusual for Burgundian red wines, they practice batonage or stirring the fine lees to achieve a richer mouthfeel. The wines are then bottled without fining or filtration to avoid stripping the wine of the character they worked so hard to develop. The resulting wine is deep in color and concentration, with excellent body.

Critics routinely sing the praises for Domaine Joseph Roty; here are some sample comments:

“Roty has made an extended push in Marsannay…and is now by far and away the quality leader for this appellation.”
--Allen Meadows, Burghound

“The village wines, including those from Marsannay, routinely outperform most premier crus from the northern Cote de Nuits. And they are reasonably priced.”
--Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar
“Roty wines are very distinctive. They are full, very intense, very perfumed and very harmonious. They are certainly immensely seductive.”
--Clive Coates, Cote D’Or

“This is winemaking of exceptional quality at every level.”
Remington Norman, The Great Domaines of Burgundy

The vineyard holdings for Domaine Joseph Roty are quite small and include several parcels which are less than an acre in size. This results in a very limited amount of bottles available for sale. These highly desirable wines are substantial, age-worthy and of very high quality which are coveted by collectors and connoisseurs alike. We are fortunate to be the only retailer in California to receive an allocation of the 2012 vintage from this small production domaine, although we certainly did not receive as much as we would like. We are excited to carry the wines of Domaine Joseph Roty and be able to share them with our customers!

Domaine Joseph Roty Coteaux Bourgignons Rouge $24.99 [344316]
Aromas of dark fruit augmented with a warm, creamy texture. This is fresh and has plenty of impact. Really good flavors – highly impressive. An excellent value given its price-point.

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Bourgogne Rouge “Cuvée de Pressonnier”
$32.99 [344300]
"The 2012 Bourgogne Cuvee de Pressonnier comes from a single 1.5-hectare parcel. This comes across as rounded, full and assertive on the nose: clean and pure with raspberry and wild strawberry infused with vanilla. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It is a correct and linear Bourgogne Rouge: fresh in the mouth with a crisp finish that has fine tension." --Robert Parker 87-89 Points

Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay Blanc $28.99 [344317]
Complex with good density and concentration and a long finish. Very limited production.

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Marsannay Rosé $24.99 [344301]
The grapes are grown specifically to make this rosé and display the complexity and character associated with Pinot Noir.

"A fresh and overtly fruity nose features mostly red pinot fruit and raspberry aromas. There is good intensity to the delicious and easy-to-like flavors that are quite refreshing and persistent if not especially complex. This should drink well as soon as it's released." --Burghound

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Marsannay Rouge $43.99 [344302]
“Bright, deep red. Aromas of blackberry, violet and licorice. Juicy, supple and sweet if a bit lacking in nuance. Shows good intensity but finishes slightly tart. 2017-2027.”
--Stephen Tanzer 86-88 Points

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Marsannay “En Ouzeloy” $48.99 [344303]
Ouzeloy is Roty’s northernmost parcel on land that has only a 1 percent grade. The secret to this vineyard is soil containing small rock fragments which provides quick drainage. Ouzeloy produces outstanding wine, year in and year out.

"Mild but not invisible wood character serves as a backdrop to the spicy dark berry fruit, cassis and prominent earth aromas. The round and supple middle weight flavors possess a slightly more refined mouth feel thanks to the relatively fine-grained tannins shaping the dusty and delicious finish where the oak is more completely integrated. This mouth coating effort is a woody but high quality effort that is worth your attention."
--Burghound 90 Points "Outstanding"

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Marsannay Rouge Cuvée de Boivin $49.99 [334304]
The upper part of the vineyard is covered with a white pebbly limestone. The center is marl (a mix of clay and decomposed limestone) studded with oyster fossils. The lower (bas) section is on deeper marl topsoil over Comblanchien limestone.

"The 2012 Marsannay Cuvée Boivin has an intriguing bouquet: dark cherry fruit, cassis, strong forest floor aromas with a lovely touch of wild mushroom and truffle. The palate is very harmonious with a sorbet fresh entry. This Marsannay is a like a ping-pong ball, ricocheting around the mouth with its spicy dark berry fruit. What a lovely, enthralling wine!"
--Robert Parker 91-93 Points

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Marsannay Clos de Jeu $49.99 [344305]
Clos de Jeu sits between two faults on limestone, which the vines can easily penetrate. Clos de Jeu closely mirrors the terroir of the great grand cru vineyards, in superb orientation, perfect slope position, excellent soils.

"The 2012 Marsannay Clos de Jeu comes from vines over 60-years old. This has a more refined and sophisticated bouquet compared to the other Marsannay crus from Roty, the fruit redder and well delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple red citrus-fresh fruit on the entry. There is fine tension here, lighter than the Boivin but just as delicious, adorned with a silky texture on the composed finish." --Robert Parker 91-93 Points

Domaine Philippe Roty 2012 Côtes Nuit Village $49.99 [344314]
"Strong reduction completely flattens the underlying fruit. This is a bit more texturally elegant than the Clos du Jeu with a lovely sense of vibrancy to the delineated and concentrated flavors that possess solid depth and length on the mouth coating finish."
--Burghound 88-91 Points

Domaine Philippe Roty 2012 Marsannay Champs Saint Etienne $48.99 [344318]
"A mildly toasty array of assorted dark berries, earth and mild sauvage hints leads to medium-bodied flavors that are underpinned by notably ripe tannins and fine concentration, all wrapped in an impressively long if overtly rustic finish where the wood toast resurfaces."
--Burghound 88 Points

Domaine Philippe Roty 2012 Marsannay Les Quartiers $48.99 [334315]
"The 2012 Marsannay Quartiers (Philippe Roty) has a subtle bouquet with attractive forest floor scents infusing the red fruit profile, lighter on its feet than the Cuvee Etienne at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline tang on the entry. This is nicely balanced with good tension and it builds gently in the mouth towards a subtle spicy finish. This is a classy Marsannay from Philippe Roty." --Robert Parker 89-91 Points

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin $72.99 [344307]
"The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Village comes from various parcels from around the appellation. It has a noticeably deep ruby color. The nose is tight and compact at the moment, the new oak just a little oppressive compared to say, some of Roty’s Marsannay crus at this early stage. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit on the entry and a fine line of acidity. It is focused and taut with good persistency on the finish; a modern sheen with plenty of flavor on the finish."
--Robert Parker 88-90 Points

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Chenys $77.99 [334306]
Champs-Chenys is surrounded by the Grand Crus Charmes Chambertin on one side and Mazy-Chambertin on another. Here the small dirt lane divides the village-level Champs-Chenys from the Grand Cru “Aux Charmes.” The soil here is a deep, but complex mix of pebbles, galets, limestone, and iron pyrite over limestone that forms this part of the escarpment.

"Strong reduction and wood toast are a pungent introduction to the otherwise delicious and refined middle weight flavors that possess a seductive mouth feel, all wrapped in a mildly woody finish that displays both good vibrancy and length. There is good concentration to the mid-palate and overall this is a lovely Gevrey villages."
--Burghound 89-91 Points "Outstanding, Top Value"

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin La Brunelle $82.99 [334308]
Located at the domaine, La Brunelle is Roty's unofficial Monopole. Larger and deeper, characteristic of the wine's origin, La Brunelle maintains red fruit aromas with smoke and animal notes with the structure and finish to provide great aging potential.

"Good dark red. Reduced, rather wild aromas of syrupy blackberry and raspberry. Ripe but dry, and showing less personality today than the Champs Chenys. A bit medicinal and sullen today and hard to taste. Finishes with serious tannins. 2019-2028." --Stephen Tanzer 88-90 Points

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur Bas $85.99 [334309]
"Discreet but not invisible wood toast sets off agreeably fresh and cool red berry fruit aromas that are trimmed Read More...in notes of earth, humus and once again a hint of the sauvage. The palate impression of the intense, delicious, lush and dusty middle weight flavors is equally fresh and vibrant and there is very solid volume to the mid-palate while the attractively lingering finish evidences hints of minerality and austerity. This is an excellent villages."
-Burghound 90 Points "Outstanding"

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er Cru
$156.99 [344310]
Adjacent to the Grand Cru Ruchottes-Chambertin, Fontenys has similar thin marl and limestone topsoil over the same Premeaux limestone slab. Fontenys sits at the top of the hill as it begins to curve toward the Combe de Lavaux. At the bottom of the vineyard, one corner dips down into an alluvial fan. The Premier Crus of Estournelles, Lavaux and Clos St Jacques can be seen on the opposite hillside.

“Bright ruby-red. Crushed blackberry, black cherry, strawberry confiture, licorice and violet on the nose. Then juicy but tight and imploded on the palate. This distinctly introverted premier cru finishes with a serious tannic spine that calls for patience. 2023-2035.”
Stephen Tanzer 90-92 Points

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru $312.99 [344311] (Very limited - Call)
Sixty Percent of the vines used in the Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin "Tres Vieilles Vignes" were planted before 1881 with the others coming from 1885. With incredible fruit and structure, this is a wine with multiple dimensions which are meant to mesmerize in youth and especially, in age.

Bright medium red. Rich, sweet aromas of kirsch, espresso and menthol lifted by a violet topnote. Very sweet and gentle for this cuvee; larger-scaled than the Griottes but perhaps not as sexy today as this wine is evolving more slowly. This wonderfully plush, broad grand cru finishes with strong but well-buffered tannins and excellent grip. Am I underrating this today? 2026-2044." --Stephen Tanzer 92-94 Points

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru $321.99 [344312]
The soils of the Mazis-Chambertin vineyard are well drained and stony, with a thin layer of pebble-strewn, chalky topsoil over a deep, rocky base. The higher end of the slope has particularly thin limestone soils forcing the vines to grow deep, strong root systems. This results in a more fragrant style of wine that is lighter in color, but just as concentrated as the best the other sites have to offer. (Very limited - Call)

“Bright ruby-red. Inky aromas of blackberry, blueberry and violet. Precise and seamless but youthfully folded in on itself, showing a strong torrefaction note of bitter chocolate to go with the dark berries. Very clenched on the finish today but this tactile grand cru possesses terrific underlying sweetness of fruit. 2025-2040.” --Stephen Tanzer 91-93 Points

Domaine Joseph Roty 2012 Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru $379.99 [344313]
(Very limited - Call)
“Bright ruby-red. Black cherry, raspberry and menthol on the nose, complicated by musky notes of coffee, iron, licorice and spices. Plusher and sweeter today than the Mazy, showing a more pliant texture to the flavors of kirsch and licorice. The lovely, spicy, mounting finish displays much rounder tannins than the Mazy but also terrific energy to support a graceful development in bottle. 2024–2038.” --Stephen Tanzer 92-94 Points

Piaggia Wines • Carmignano, Tuscany

by Gary Faust

It was an unexpected pleasure when Silvia Vannucci of Piaggia Wines dropped by the store. We were thrilled to meet her as she is the winemaker of this great Carmignano estate, which her father established in the 1970s.

Carmignano is a wine-producing region in Tuscany, just north of the beautiful town of Florence with a long and fascinating history. The wines are not as well known in the United States as their neighbors in Chianti, but they are held in high regard and are noteworthy wines of distinction.

This beautiful land has long been favored by nobility including the Medici family. The ultimate power family of Tuscany became even more so when Catherin de Medici married the King of France in the 16th century, becoming the Queen. As a wedding gift, the King gave cuttings of Cabernet Franc vines from Bordeaux to the family and thus began the tradition of blending Cabernet Franc into the bottlings of Carmignano. In return, the Medici family’s wedding gift was silverware. Up to that point, the royal court of France ate its food without utensils!

The wine was held in such high esteem that in 1716, the duke Cosimo III ruled the area should have special legal protected status, thus creating one of the world’s first wine appellations. As a point of comparison, the French AOC system was not established until the 1930s.

Carmignano is not a large appellation, with only 11 producers farming 500 hectares. As in Chianti, the majority of the grapes used in the red wine are Sangiovese, but the appellation of Carmignano mandates that the wine contain 10-20% Cabernet Franc. For anyone who has enjoyed Tuscan expressions of Cabernet Franc, you know it is not an herbal or spicy style common to some other areas where it is grown. Instead, it brings lush, ripe fruit with fine grained tannins. One could almost argue Carmignano is home to the original SuperTuscan wines with its inclusion of the international variety, Cabernet Franc. The wines are Bordeaux-like, which is not surprising given the maritime influence of the nearby coast and its clay soil.

The original three-hectare plot of land purchased by Vannucci’s father is ideally situated in a southwest facing amphitheater, which serves to uniformly ripen the grapes. Silvia’s father was originally in the textile business and made a little wine on the side for his family. He began giving wine as a thank you to some of his customers who immediately recognized the quality. Initially her father didn’t know much about winemaking, but the excellent terroir revealed itself in the high quality of the wine. The family began formally selling their wine in 1990 and immediately received praise from critics.

The family has been slowly adding land, but their vineyard holdings total only 15 hectares as they strive to maintain quality. The wines of Piaggia come only from their estate grown grapes, which are hand-picked with a focus on ensuring a high degree of phenolic ripeness. At the sorting table, strict sorting results in only the best grapes making the cut. The wines are then aged in French barriques before bottling.

Very little of the wine is made with even less making it to California. Only 300 bottles of the Carmignano Riserva are brought into California, while approximately 200 bottles of the Poggio de’Colli Cabernet Franc make it here. This is low-production, high quality stuff. The wines display amazing richness and purity of fruit and are a treat to behold. We decided to highlight three of our favorite wines that we are fortunate enough to have in our cellar.

Il Sasso Carmignano 2011 $35.98 [301580]

Deep, intense ruby red. Complex on the nose, reminiscent of Maraschino cherries, sweet spices, thyme and cocoa. Full and enveloping on the palate with an excellent balance of fruit, acid and tannins, and a persistent finish. This wine pairs well with mature cheeses, red meat and game. 

Carmignano Riserva 2011 $49.95 [303984]

The Carmignano Riserva is the flagship wine of Piaggia, showcasing a modern interpretation of Carmignano's Sangiovese base blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. This a selection of the best hand-picked grapes and subsequently the best barrels produced at the winery. This is regarded as perhaps the best wine produced in the appellation.

Stephen Tanzer 92 Points: “Deep, penetrating aromas of ripe black cherry and cassis complicated by cedar and graphite. Big, deep and rich, but with lively harmonious acidity framing and lifting the ripe red and dark fruit flavors. Finishes smooth and very concentrated, but with an element of gracefulness and refinement that is lacking in the Il Sasso vineyard. Owner Mauro Vannucci believes in harvesting the ripest fruit possible and Piaggia often starts picking its merlot grapes when others have finished harvesting their cabernets! Most of the grapes used for this wine come from the Piaggia vineyard that Vannucci bought in the 1970s from the nearby Capezzana estate. It's a fascinating old vineyard (the vines average roughly 35 years of age), where it's easy to recognize many old vines of cabernet (these are at least 50 years old) co-planted haphazardly among the rows of mainly sangiovese.”  

Poggio de’Colli Toscana IGT $64.95 [303894] 

This 100% Cabernet Franc based wine was recently chosen to receive a coveted Tre Bicchieri award for quality Italian wines by Gambero Rosso (Italy's most influential media group). Tre Bicchieri (“Three Glasses”) wines are deemed to be the best in Italy. The 2014 Tre Bicchieri award winners were selected from 25,000 wines produced by 2000 wineries. This Cabernet Franc is world class, displaying a soft, supple wine which is quite capable of aging.

Deep and intense ruby red with purple highlights. Complex aromas reveal violets, currants, mocha and licorice. On the palate, the wine is mouth-filling and full-bodied with well-integrated tannins, red and dark fruit, exotic spices and a pleasant earthiness culminating in a long finish. This is a delight to enjoy on its own or with a nice steak.

Upright Brewing

Upright Brewing
by Don Fox

My trip to visit Alex Ganum, owner and Brewmaster of Upright, took me to the basement of the historical Hazelwood/Leftbank Building. It’s a recently renovated, giant old-fashioned warehouse in downtown Portland. When I arrived around 10AM, Alex asked me, “Are you against drinking this early?”

This was the best joke I heard on my trip.

During our visit we tried such beers as Upright Oyster Stout, which has all the great usual tastes of a stout with a nice, creamy, minerality twist... taste the oysters. Upright Fourplay a take on the saison Four, is aged in La Bete Pinot Noir barrels with Oregon cherries. Pink in color, light in body, and tart, with the flavor characteristic of earthiness, cherries and funk.

Upright specializes in a niche hybrid Belgian-American farmhouse style. In addition to the brewing facility, Upright has a small-sized tasting room with a very mellow atmosphere; they somehow make it feel like you're spinning records and drinking beers in a friend’s basement. Alex was very generous, and opened up the brewery on a day that they were closed to the public. He invited us to hang out for a few hours to discuss his brewing method and try his beers, and we obliged. 

The brew room’s design is pretty straightforward, intended to make the most of its capacity while still doing everything by hand and staying small-batch. The entire staff at the brewery can be counted on one hand and it’s very easy to see that lots of hard work and time goes into their process. They intend to keep their current situation without expanding past their 1200 barrel-a-year capacity so they can stay focused on both creativity and quality. The fact that Upright purposely brews small batch, artisanal-style beer lets them embrace variations and inconsistencies as they experiment with every batch they brew. Due to the brewing method and their bottle conditioning process, sometimes their beer will taste better after one month in the bottle, and at other times it will hit a sweet spot after three months or more in the bottle. The reality is, no matter how or when you enjoy their beer, it will be amazing.

 

Below is a list of Upright saisons that can be found at Hi-Time with year-round availability. 

 

Upright Four  $9.97 [471968] 750ml

Truly a light yet flavorful beer. The recipe uses a good portion of wheat and incorporates a sour mash into the process to make it slightly tart and extra refreshing. It has delicate aromas and flavors that span a range of floral, grassy and herbal notes. The finish is extra dry and makes the beer a great beverage to pair with food, especially various cheeses and shellfish.

Malts: organic pale, organic wheat, organic munich
Unmalted: rolled wheat
Hops: Hallertauer Mittelfrüh
4.5% abv

Upright Five $9.97 [471966] 750ml

 A farmhouse pale ale that was born after enjoying a few small production European brews that use a heavy hand of hops. This one blends several Mt. Angel grown varieties to create a deep and complex flavor with an underlying earthiness. Pale fruit aromas created during the fermentation brighten the profile and bring the beer balance. 

Malts: organic pale,organic caramel
Unmalted: rolled barley
Hops: Willamette, Liberty, Perle
5.5% abv 

 

Upright Six $9.97 [471967] 750ml

This is a dark rye beer with layered flavors including chocolate, caramel, pepper, wood, cherry and tropical fruit. It starts semi-dry and smooth and finishes fully dry and tart with a small bite from the hops. The overall balance of the Six makes it easy to pair with richly prepared meats along with many harder cheeses.

Malts: organic pale, caramel, rye, black

Unmalted: rolled rye
Hops: Magnum, Tettnanger
6.7% abv 

Karma Tequila

A blend of 80% double and 20% triple distilled tequila, Karma is smooth, clean, delicate, and aromatic.

Karma produces:

Silver - Unaged. Bottled immediately following distillation.

Reposado - Aged the maximum… 364 days in American white oak bourbon barrels.

Añejo - Aged nearly the maximum… 2 years 11 months in American white oak barrels.

Extra Añejo - Already aged more than 4 years with likely a couple more to go. 

It's all the little things…

Born out of a family distillery established in 1937 in the highlands of Jalisco, considered the Napa Valley of Mexico, the land surrounding Atotonilco el Alto is fertile and the climate is perfect for growing the Blue Weber Agave… the plant which defines tequila. 

The Blue Weber Agave takes from 7 to 12 years to mature. Karma harvests only the finest plants which assures they meet their minimum 28%+ sugar standards. This helps ensure ultimate sweetness as well as batch-to-batch flavor consistency, further ensuring bottle-to-bottle consistency. Piñas, the heart of the agave plant, are slowly cooked in brick ovens for 24 hours which carmelizes them and then they are rested (cooled down) for an additional 24 hours before being run through multiple pressing mills to extract sugar from the fibers of the agave plant. 

Following distillation, the product at the top and bottom of the still, the “heads and tails,” are removed which further ensures ultimate sweetness. Karma is an all-natural product with only three ingredients: blue weber agave, proprietary yeast and pure water. Karma is THE ONLY tequila produced which is a blend of both double and tripled distilled batches… triple distilled being much smoother than double. The 80/20 blend (double/triple) hits that magic sweet spot of smoothness and flavor. It is smoother than any double and more flavorful than any triple. We encourage you to do your own taste test…. after which you’ll understand why Karma is so good.

Winner of multiple awards:
L.A. Times (Spirit of the Times), Santa Barbara Tequila Harvest Festival, The Fifty Best, Los Angeles International Spirits Competition, SIP Awards, San Francisco World Spirits Competition, Beverly Hills World Spirits Competition

Check out the Karma Tequila website for some of the finest tequila cocktails ever!

www.karmatequila.com












Consejo Regulador del Tequila – CRT
Tequila Regulatory Council, Jalisco, Mexico
Percent Agave sugar and Aging requirements:

Classification	% Agave	Aged
Gold	51%, 49% other sugar	Typically none (color comes from food coloring)
Silver	100%	Up to 60 days (typically not aged)
Reposado	100%	Minimum 60 days up to 1 year
Añejo	100%	Minimum 1 year up to 3 years
Extra Anejo	100%	Minimum 3 years and up

The tequila industry’s governing body is the CRT. Above is a chart, which specifies the aging requirements prescribed by the CRT. Karma Reposado is aged 364 days… the maximum allowed… one more day in the barrel and the CRT would require it be classified as añejo. Karma Añejo is aged 2 years, 11 months….nearly the maximum allowed for its class.

The Coa is the tool used to harvest the Agave...

The piñas, the heart of the Agave plant, being unloaded and quartered...

Ovens where the piñas are cooked for 24 hours, carmelizing them...

The shredder removes the sugars from the piñas once they have cooled down...

Copper / stainless steel potstills the tequila.  Converts sugars to tequila when their family proprietary yeast is added...

Karma is aged in American White Oak...

Each bottle of Karma Tequila is hand-numbered...