by Gary Faust
One of the best things about working at Hi-Time is sifting through thousands upon thousands of wines each year before finally falling upon a real under-the-radar gem. That's exactly what happened a couple of years ago during a trip to Italy when we came upon this incredibly cool wine. We had never heard of Ruché, but once we tasted it we were stunned; it was unlike anything else we had ever tasted! We brought it into the store and our customers embraced it enthusiastically, turning this little known grape into one of our most popular Italian wines. Before we knew it, we were in the midst of a Ruché craze! We’re thrilled to announce the latest vintage of Ruché has arrived and the new vintage is every bit as good as previous vintages if not better!
Ruché (roo-kay) is an Italian red wine varietal from the Piedmont region that is used in making Montalbera Ruché "Laccento." The appellation was elevated to DOCG status in 2010, which is the highest recognition of quality for Italian wines. The grape, referred to as “The Red Prince of Monferrato,” is one of the lowest production varietals in Italy with only about 150 acres being farmed. It has been grown in Piedmont for at least one hundred years but has only recently been marketed and consumed outside of the region.
Its modern popularity and renaissance can be attributed to an enlightened parish priest named Don Giacomo Cauda. When he arrived at Castagnole Monferrato in the 1970s, he found 10 rows of Ruché planted on the parish property. Struck by the characteristics of the variety, he became fascinated and fell in love with its quality, which was apparent in the grapes even while they were still on the vine. He began planting additional vines and championed Ruché to anyone who would listen. Don Cauda described the wine in one of his writings, “It has perfect body and balance of unique aromas, flavours and fragrances. When drunk in moderation, it liberates the spirit and opens up one’s mind.” We couldn’t agree more!
Long ago the local people used to consider Ruché a wine for celebrations and over time it acquired an aura of legend. This nectar in the collective imagination became the wine that accompanied the Astigiani troops in the Crusades.
The origin and name of this particular cultivar are unknown although there are many hypotheses. One is that it comes from San Rocco, a community of monks devoted to the saint who introduced its cultivation in that area. Others believe the name derives from the Piedmontese word "roche," referring to a vine grown in the areas protected by the Monferrato Hills. Recent studies and meticulous analysis of the vine and its features would seem to show that Ruché derives from the ancient vines of Haute-Savoie. The mystery of Ruché therefore remains unsolved, while the only certainty seems to be the feelings that always come with every sip. The charm and mystery of this wine are real with a taste so special and unique that it clearly stands out, making it a true gem of viticulture in this region.MONTALBERA 2013 RUCHE "LACCENTO" $25.95 [302131]
The Montalbera 2013 Ruché "Laccento" received the coveted Tre Bicchieri (Three Glasses) award from the noted Italian wine magazine Gambero Rosso. It also received a Gold Medal at the Decanter Wine Awards. Famed Italian wine critic and author Luca Maroni has called this wine, “An absolute masterwork of nature, technique, humanity and pure passion..." and gave it a 99 point rating.
Medium ruby in color. The flavors one encounters are like taking a walk through a farmer’s market and filling your bag with a selection of fresh cherries, blueberries and blackberries. Next come Indian spices such as cardamom and nutmeg followed by a bouquet of violets and roses. On the palate, the wine is delicious and medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins. It pairs well with most foods including the often challenging Asian-inspired dishes and is tremendous on its own.
LUCA MARONI 99 POINTS - "It is thanks to the vintage’s warmth, but also to the reduced yield and the selective viticulture that for its first time the Ruchè donates such a fleshy thickness. Tannins are pronounced enough to evolve those strawberries you get on the nose and to the taste assuming the sublime fleshiness of a blackberry. The aroma’s masculinity increases in volume, no damage being done to the fruit’s wonderful smoothness, striped in sweetness and veins of forest berries which are integral and sharp to the olfaction just like still in the raw. The taste’s balance gives harmonious softness counterpointed by tannic savory and corroborated by mineral salinity. This is truly a wine which viticultural and oenological value is sublime; it is a naturalistic and technical creation whose analytical merit appeals universally to the senses."
