A Fabulous One and Only Champagne: Moutard Arbanne

by Jim Duane

MOUTARD 2008 CEPAGE ARBANNE VIEILLES VIGNES $79.98 [377623]

While researching our recent profile of the L. Aubry Fils “Le Nombre D’Or Campaneae Veteres Vites" which features four grapes (Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Fromemteau and Pinot Blanc) that were all but wiped out by the 19th Century phylloxera plague in Champagne, we came upon mention of a Champagne by Moutard that was made entirely from Arbanne. Arbanne is a fascinating varietal not unlike Grüner Veltliner and it has a long history of cultivation in the southern part of the Champagne region but its present plantings total a mere five acres.

The Moutard-Deligent family have been growers in Buxeuil, situated just southeast of Troyes in the Côte des Bar, since 1642. The family started making their own Champagne in 1927 and today they farm 52 acres of vines. Most of their plantings are to Pinot Noir but they do have a number of plots of “heirloom” grape varietals like Arbanne. Learning that the family’s “Cepage Arbanne” was the only one of its type produced today really piqued our interest and we immediately scrambled to get our hands on some. As luck would have it, we scored the last two cases from the importer. This 2008 was made from 60-year-old vines, fermented entirely in stainless steel and was aged four years on the lees before being disgorged in January of 2014. Thought-provoking and compelling, this Moutard is like no sparkler we have had, as it exhibits an exotic flavor profile that is somewhat akin to Vouvray combined with the structure and delineation that could only spring from Champagne. At first whiff, notes of Polenta emerge followed by fragrances of white flowers, quince and damp chalk. Its dense yet sleek Chenin-Blanc-like fruit (think Bosc pears) makes a pleasing initial impression and is quickly elaborated with hints of river stones and key lime while its racy finish morphs to deliver enduring red grapefruit impressions. As we sipped this fascinating bubbly we couldn’t help but wonder how much more diverse and interesting Champagne would be if the region’s heirloom grapes were in wider production. Limited.