Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Carlin de Paolo: Harmony in Wine, Family & Nature



Carlin de Paolo wines are four generations of grape growing and winemaking by the Ponte family of Piemonte. Jeancarlo and David, two brothers and the current winemakers, learned the trade from their father Franco, who learned it from his father Carlin, who learned from his father, Paolo, the man who started it all.In the early 1910s Paolo, at the time a recently married young man, planted his first vines in the rolling hills of Asti, just before WWI. He had always dreamed of growing grapes and his dream was finally happening. Unfortunately for Paolo the war began and the Germans rolled their tanks through those hills and decimated his vines. But luckily his young family survived and he was able to plant again.
All seemed to be going well for a couple of decades. Paolo's estate began to grow in acreage and his young family was growing as well. His son Carlin was grown, now helping his father in the vineyards and starting a family of his own. But fate was not on the Ponte's side as WWII broke out and the Germans, yet again, rolled through the hills of Piemonte, destroying their land.

The family forged on and, once the smoke had cleared, put all of their money back into the land. Paolo, now an older man, continued to work the vines with his son Carlin, and now grandson Franco. And as they say, the third time's the charm. There was no WWIII so the Ponte estate grew and grew, and today they have acreage through Asti, Alba, Barolo and Barbaresco.

As an homage to their great-grandfather's unyielding spirit, Jeancarlo and David have depicted Paolo on the front of every bottle of their family's wines. In his ripped trousers and worn-in hat, Paolo marches through the grey muck of life with a clenched fist and open heart, resulting in the beautiful red soil of his land behind him.


Carlin de Paolo "Il Giullare" 2013 Rosé Barbera $19.95 [301712]

Gorgeous salmon-colored rosé. The nose is filled with tropical fruits, mango, papaya, pineapple, a touch of minerality, floral notes and a hint of spice. Very lush. The palate continues the theme of lushness with excellent viscosity and richness; yet, this wine is very dry. The fresh, forward fruits give an illusion of sweetness while lending their flavors: nectarine, tangerine, wild cherries. Créme fraiche in the background, spring fruits in the finish with background musings of hibiscus and melon. Move over, south of France, there's a new contender in town. Perfect fit for the warm weather we've been having lately.



Carlin de Paolo 2012 Piemonte Grignolino $17.98 [301708]

Tasted chilled. Very peppery and spicy in the nose with equal parts red berry and red plum. Hints of warmer brown baking spices in the background. Dry in the mouth, the fruit's brightness (red berries, razzberry, red plum) is exceedingly attractive and pleasurable, melded with notes of Italian hillside/garrique. Mid-palate flashes of sweetness lead to a mostly dry finish with excellent echoes of of the mixed red fruits from nose and palate. Rather refreshing having this one chilled and would definitely recommend for the hot months and casual meals.



Carlin de Paolo 2012 Barbera d'Asti $19.95 [301702]

Notes of cherry/raspberry, dark spices and dark florals, cherry cola, vanilla, red licorice. Nice balance of fruits, slight earthiness and nice spice. The palate, again, is lush with mixed wild berries (blueberry, loganberry, raspberry) sending shoots of sweetness that are checked by excellent levels of tannin and acidity. Very harmonious, balanced wine. The mid-palate continues with mixed fruits and spices, sweetness tempered by structure, adding a touch of smoke, as the finish of berry fruits lasts and lasts.



Carlin de Paolo Cisterna d'Asti 100% Croatina (Bonarda)
$29.95 [301706]

We finished our Carlin de Paolo mini-tasting of four wines with this 100% Croatina Cisterna d'Asti, and what a treat it was. Fans of Cabernet Sauvignon should give this one a try as the fruits and tannins of Cab have some similarities to Croatina (Bonarda). The nose is rich and sexy: earthy strawberry, wood, mixed brown spices, tea leaf. In the mouth, it's rounded and viscous (an excellent theme with Carlin de Paolo that we enjoyed); the solid fruit flavors of mixed red berries (both cherry and cranberry stood out), the excellent tannins kept the fruit from becoming heavy, leading to a mid-palate and finish that added blackberry, strawberries and a light earthy minerality.

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