Hartford Family Winery: Impressive Wines from Russian River AVA

by Dan Williams

Robert Parker has commented that "Hartford Family Winery is one of the most impressively run wineries in the Russian River AVA."  Why is that?  Because Don Hartford knows how to find the right spots for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and knows how to coax the most out of those berries!

Pinot Noir is one of the most fickle grapes in the world for wine production.  It’s not like Syrah, in that it can thrive in a wide variety of soils and climates.  No… Pinot Noir is picky.  It only shows its best when it’s in one of a very few specific types of soil, with minimal rain during the growing season, and in cooler regions.  Maybe that’s why Pinot Noir is so revered by consumers and collectors, and certain bottlings of Pinot Noir are among the most expensive wines in the world.

Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley and its surrounding areas are known as having the ability to produce some of the best Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay) in the world.  The cooling influence from the Pacific Ocean combined with the loamy soils that are a mix of sand, clay, and old ocean floor, are an ideal combination for these Burgundian varietals.  Don and Jennifer Hartford fell in love with the Pinot Noirs around their Russian River Valley home and began to learn why these wines were so special.  They found that making delicious wines of high personality is directly related to the difficult locations of their vineyard sources, along with limiting the yields of those vineyards.  "Character through adversity" is an expression that they believe applies to people and grapevines, and surviving adversity builds character, and personality, in both.  Since 1994, the Hartford Family Winery has crafted some of the most thrilling Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays out of Sonoma County and yet they have flown relatively under the radar.  Well… we’re here to change that last part!

The Hartford wines have received VERY high scores in the past few years; scores as high as 97 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.  Recently, we went through much of the lineup, and to say that we were completely floored by this current offering would be an understatement.  We are fortunate to taste a large number of wines here at Hi-Time, but it’s not often that the entire lineup from one winery really makes us “sit up straight and pay attention--" these Hartford wines did just that!

That being said, here’s a list of some of the standout wines from that recent tasting-- including the pictured-at-left Old Vine Zin.  Some of these wines are extremely limited, so you might not want to hesitate!

HARTFORD 2013 CHARDONNAY RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
$23.95 [228800]
One taste of this Chardonnay, and we were hooked!  This Russian River Valley Chardonnay comes from a collection of small vineyards located throughout the Russian River Valley AVA.  These vineyards are a combination of Hartford Court's estate properties such as Fog Dance, Arrendell and Bloomfield, as well as a handful of neighboring vineyards located in the heart of the Russian River Valley. The sites express the essence of the Russian River Valley by showcasing the best of the sub-regions within this world class AVA.  Aged for 9 months in French oak barrels, the 2013 Hartford Court Russian River Valley Chardonnay offers subtle aromas of jasmine flower, citrus oil, ripe apple and pear.  The elegant aromatics are complemented by fresh kiwi, lemon drop and Pippin apple flavors.  The fruit-focused mid-palate is followed by subtle mineral notes and a hint of crystallized ginger in the finish.


HARTFORD 2013 CHARDONNAY “FOUR HEARTS” RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $30.99 [228870]
ROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS! – “From the Laguna Ridge sub-region of Russian River, the bottled 2013 Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyard (1,200 cases made) is fashioned from such older Chardonnay clones as the Wente, Sees and Rued. It displays tremendous acidity, wonderful ripeness, a leaner, and a more premier cru Chablis-like style than the Three Jacks and Stone Cote cuvées. It should drink well for 5-7 years."

HARTFORD 2012 PINOT NOIR RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
$27.95 [228860]
It’s hard to find a better Russian River Valley Pinot Noir for the money than this one right here!  This bottling is a mélange of fruit from several key and distinct vineyards from across the valley.  In fact, much of this wine is comprised of barrels from their single-vineyard program!  Aromas of blackberries, boysenberry, nutmeg and smoke are followed by flavors of Bing cherries, wild raspberries, roasted plum and allspice. A compelling & dense entry followed by a sweet and juicy mouthfeel is supported by balanced acidity, fine grain tannins and an intriguingly complex finish.


HARTFORD 2012 PINOT NOIR “HAILEY’S” SONOMA COAST
$65.95 [228850]
ROBERT PARKER 96 POINTS! – “The 2012 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block comes from a cold, windy area in Green Valley. In reality, it is a sub-portion of the Arrendell Vineyard. The wine, which sees 44% new French oak, possesses stunning intensity as well as notes of spring flowers, raspberries, wild strawberries and sweet black cherries, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and a broad, savory richness. Drink 2015-2025."

HARTFORD 2012 ZINFANDEL “OLD VINE”
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $29.99 [228810]
ROBERT PARKER 91 POINTS! – “The 2012 Zinfandel Russian River, their largest production cuvee (over 2,500 cases), was aged in 20% new French oak for nine months, then bottled unfined and unfiltered. It tips the scales at 15% alcohol. It exhibits an opaque blue/purple color along with plenty of briery, berry fruit intermixed with hints of incense, Christmas fruitcake and spice. This exuberant, richly fruity, full-bodied Zin can be drunk over the next 4-5 years.”

Château Font du Loup Châteauneuf-du-Pape

by Josh Hoover

Located at one of the highest points in Châteaneuf-du-Pape, Château Font du Loup, which translates to 'fountain of the wolves', is named after the natural springs in the area where the wolves would come to drink on their way to the planes. There is even a statue of a wolf drinking from their fountain right in the courtyard in front of the Château. Font du Loup has been in the Melia family since 1942 and is now run by the extremely charming Anne Charlotte Melia-Bachas with her husband and the help of consultant Philippe Cambie. Standing in the vineyard outside the château, the Mistral (the famous wind of the Rhône Valley) is strong enough to knock you over. Font du Loup has roughly 50 acres (organically farmed), including holdings in the La Crau and Font du Loup vineyards, and is planted on mostly sandy soil with vines that reach 100 years old. 

I fell in love with the wines of Font du Loup the first time I tasted them-- and was even more enamored when I was told how much they sell for. I visited the Château in the spring of 2012 and was treated to a wonderful tour and tasting with Anne Charlotte. She took me through the vineyards adjacent to the Château (so I could feel the power of the Mistral first hand) then guided me down one of the most dangerous sets of spiral staircases I have ever been down, into the cellar where all the barrels and tanks hold the wines for aging. 

After the tour we headed to a small tasting room and tasted through the current lineup of Font du Loup. I don’t remember exactly which vintages we tasted (must have misplaced my notes) but I do remember they were all very fine, elegant and flat-out delicious wines. When we finished up, both of us needing to get to our next appointment, Anne Charlotte generously gifted me a bottle of 2007 Puy Rolland, a 100% Grenache from 100-year-old vines and a great vintage. I carried that bottle from stop to stop. From Châteauneuf-du-Pape thr Cornas, to Condrieu, into Lyon, up to Beaune and finally Chablis. Each stop making sure to take the bottle out of the car because it was extremely hot during my visit. I was determined to get this bottle back to the States and enjoy it with friends who would appreciate the journey it has taken and the amazing graceful qualities it possess. Then I rolled into Chablis. I was there to visit one of my favorite people in wine: Patrick Piuze. I don’t know what it is about Patrick but when we get together things somehow get blurry. I had totally lost all sight of my mission to preserve my bottle of Puy Rolland. After a few hours in the cellar and “tasting” with Patrick, we headed off to his house, where I was staying for the night. That is when I saw the horrific sight. The bottle that had traveled over 10 days and I don’t know how many miles, was in the back seat of the car leaking everywhere. I had lost. We opened it at Patrick’s to see if it was somehow still alive. It was not! Not one for wasting anything, Patrick used the cooked wine as part of the duck he made us for dinner…. Sad, so sad!

The reason I am going on and on about this bottle is because of how the story eventually ends. About a year or so after my visit, Anne Charlotte came to the states and visited Hi-Time. I told her the story I just told above. I was very embarrassed to tell her I had cooked the wine and it was used for sauce. She promptly turned to her supplier and friend Jerome Brenot and said something in French. Two weeks later a package arrived for me. It was a replacement bottle of 2007 Puy Rolland. That just speaks to the generosity and truly caring nature of Anne Charlotte and it shines through in every bottle of wine she and her team produces. 

Whether it's a great score or a great story you're looking for in a wine, Font Du Loup delivers on both accounts. The wines are made in an elegant, pure, pretty style and are as warm and inviting as the good folks making and selling them.

CHÂTEAU FONT DU LOUP 2013 CÔTES DU RHÔNE $19.99 [334199]

The 2013 Côtes du Rhône from Font du Loup is medium ruby in color. Red and black fruits greet the nose along with lavender floral notes. On the palate, the wine is dry, medium-bodied and fresh with silky smooth tannins. Black cherry liqueur, ripe black plum and black raspberry flavors linger in this satisfying Southern Rhône blend, which exhibits considerable elegance and finesse.

CHÂTEAU FONT DU LOUP 2012 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE
$39.99 [334088]

eROBERT PARKER 92 POINTS: "Font du Loup’s 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a gorgeous blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault that’s almost all from the sandy plots in the La Crau lieu-dit. Aged 18 months in foudre, it exhibits notions of kirsch, dusty soils, garrigue and dried flowers in its medium-bodied, elegant, seamless and decidedly polished, feminine style. Showing the silky tannin that’s common from sandy soils, this beauty will dish out loads of pleasure through 2022."

CHÂTEAU FONT DU LOUP 2012 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE PUY ROLLAND 100% GRENACHE-100 YEAR OLD VINES $46.99 [334089]

eROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS: "Coming from the eastern part of La Crau (more toward Vieux Telegraph) and 100-year-old Grenache vines, the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Puy Rolland was completely destemmed and brought up all in foudre. It boasts thrilling notes of kirsch, orange blossom, dried flowers, sea breeze and dusty soil on the nose. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied wine that has beautiful concentration, ultra-fine tannin and a seamless, silky texture that keeps you coming back to the glass. Given its overall polish and balance, it’s a joy to drink even now, yet should hit its stride in another 2-4 years and have 15+ years of overall longevity."

A Fabulous One and Only Champagne: Moutard Arbanne

by Jim Duane

MOUTARD 2008 CEPAGE ARBANNE VIEILLES VIGNES $79.98 [377623]

While researching our recent profile of the L. Aubry Fils “Le Nombre D’Or Campaneae Veteres Vites" which features four grapes (Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Fromemteau and Pinot Blanc) that were all but wiped out by the 19th Century phylloxera plague in Champagne, we came upon mention of a Champagne by Moutard that was made entirely from Arbanne. Arbanne is a fascinating varietal not unlike Grüner Veltliner and it has a long history of cultivation in the southern part of the Champagne region but its present plantings total a mere five acres.

The Moutard-Deligent family have been growers in Buxeuil, situated just southeast of Troyes in the Côte des Bar, since 1642. The family started making their own Champagne in 1927 and today they farm 52 acres of vines. Most of their plantings are to Pinot Noir but they do have a number of plots of “heirloom” grape varietals like Arbanne. Learning that the family’s “Cepage Arbanne” was the only one of its type produced today really piqued our interest and we immediately scrambled to get our hands on some. As luck would have it, we scored the last two cases from the importer. This 2008 was made from 60-year-old vines, fermented entirely in stainless steel and was aged four years on the lees before being disgorged in January of 2014. Thought-provoking and compelling, this Moutard is like no sparkler we have had, as it exhibits an exotic flavor profile that is somewhat akin to Vouvray combined with the structure and delineation that could only spring from Champagne. At first whiff, notes of Polenta emerge followed by fragrances of white flowers, quince and damp chalk. Its dense yet sleek Chenin-Blanc-like fruit (think Bosc pears) makes a pleasing initial impression and is quickly elaborated with hints of river stones and key lime while its racy finish morphs to deliver enduring red grapefruit impressions. As we sipped this fascinating bubbly we couldn’t help but wonder how much more diverse and interesting Champagne would be if the region’s heirloom grapes were in wider production. Limited.

Italy: Cascina Luisin

1913 marked the inaugural vintage for Luigi Minuto thus forming Cascina Luisin. This set up the Minuto family to become one of the oldest wine making families in Barbaresco.  Not only are they one of the oldest, but they were the first to bottle and sell wine on a commercial level in the early 1930s.  It is important to remember that unlike other regions in Italy, Piedmont has a very short history with quality wine making.  Post WWII gave rise to the quality we have come to expect from the Barbaresco and Barolo.  The names Minuto and Gaja are the first brought up when discussing the historical producers who paved the way.  

Today Luigi’s great grandson, Luigi, who is now in his seventies continues on the family winemaking tradition with his son Roberto.  The winery was named by Roberto’s great grandfather for his grandfather Luigi.  Roberto is 7th generation to make wine, the 4th to live under the same roof to which the winery is attached by a small patio that looks out over the Rabajà vineyard.  The family philosophy is meticulous vineyard care and they hold great respect for upholding traditional winemaking practices in the winery. 

The wines of Cascina Luisin are well known for their accessibility in their youth with great core fruit that holds up well and evolves with age.  

Barbera d’Alba Maggiur 2012 $16.95 [302904]

Maggiur lies within the greater Asili vineyard.  It is indisputably one of the greatest.  Maggiur receives more hours of sunshine than any other location in the vineyard leading to greater ripeness and maturity in the finished wine.  It is nothing short of a miracle that these vines, planted by Robert’s grandfather almost 60 years ago, have not been grubbed up and replanted to Nebbiolo.  

The wine is fermented in stainless steel then aged in a mixture of barrique and tonneaux for a total of 12 months.  The wine is full of exuberant red fruit.  Fresh raspberries and chocolate covered bing cherries harmoniously mingle with a slight vanilla spice of oak and the flowery freshness we expect from Barbera. 

 

Langhe Nebbiolo Maggiur 2012 $19.95 [302805]

These 80-year-old vines are planted next to the Barbera in Asili.  Being less than 50 meters from the boundary line of Barbaresco you get an incredible “bang for your buck” with this wine.  

Fermentation in cement tanks softens the wine and allows for a more gentle extraction of tannins while lending a unique texture.  The wine is then aged in tonneaux for 12 months.  The wine is a shining example of Nebbiolo.  Bright and fresh with notes of sweet tar and rose petals opening to reveal cassis and spice.  

Barbaresco Rabajà 2010 $54.95 [302906]

The Rabajà vineyard is with out a doubt the most historically significant vineyard with the most prestige in all of Barbaresco.  The vineyard faces west towards the Rio Tanaro.  This is literally the Minuto’s backyard.  

Cascina Luisin harvests just one hectare of the clay rich Rabajà. Yielding just around 350 cases per vintage.  The wine spends 20 days in cement during primary fermentation then is transferred to large format barrels ranging in size between 20-50 hl.   This wine is known for its great elegance and austerity of classic Nebbiolo displaying delicate fruit and age worthy tannins.  

 

Barbaresco Sori Paolin 2010 $54.95 [302504]

Sori Paolin is the best plot within the Basarin Vineyard.  A steep, sandy south facing vineyard.  In comparison to Rabajà, Sori Paolin has much richer and deeper core fruit with a slightly heavier tannic structure.  

Sori Paolin is made exactly the same as Rabajà.  Primary fermentation takes place over the course of about 20 days, then the wine is laid to rest in oak for two years.  

Cheers!

Hi-Time Beerventures: Cicerone!

 

By Don Fox

Last year I began my official studying for the Cicerone program, mostly to further understand what it is that I’m selling and how to do so correctly (Beer in a dirty glass = bad). Beginning in February, we thought it would be cool to take a group of awesome, beer-loving Hi-Time employees and start the first level of the Cicerone program with the intent on testing for the second level at the end of this year.

The Cicerone Certification Program certifies and educates beer professionals in order to elevate the beer experience for consumers (Think Wine Sommelier, but for beer...We get badges too!). It has three levels: Certified Beer Server, Certified Cicerone and Master Cicerone.  

Curious about the program?  Check out http://cicerone.org/ for more information.  We'll let you know how we do... cheers!

 

Dining With Wines From Jorge Ordóñez

by Gary Faust

Working at Hi-Time certainly has its advantages and its perks! Last Wednesday (2/18), several members of the wine staff participated in exclusive training provided by Jack Guinan from Jorge Ordóñez wines at the newly renovated Water Table restaurant at the Huntington Beach Hyatt. The restaurant and resort are first-rate, by the way, and the staff provided great service. John Hickey from Henry Wine Group made the arrangements and facilitated the evening. We were treated to delicious appetizers, great food and a sampling of thirty wines from the Jorge Ordóñez collection. We know it’s tough work, but somebody has to do it!

When this special event for Hi-Time staff was proposed, we were excited as we have long been fans of these wines. Jorge Ordóñez is something of a modern day pioneer who recognized that the combination of soil, altitude, weather and indeed terroir make Spain a region with unlimited potential for producing world class wines.

In particular, Ordóñez sought to elevate the quality of Spanish winemaking. He also re-discovered largely ignored and under-appreciated vineyards in several regions of Spain. He challenged the American palate by being the first to introduce what were then exotic varietals such as Albariño, Txakoli and Godello. He partnered with talented winemakers and introduced San Vicente, Moncayo, Remirez de Ganuza, Muga, El Nido “Clio” and Emilio Moro to the world along with many other noteworthy wines. Before long, Americans became aware of regions such as Ribera Del Duero, Rias Baixas, Jumilla and Montsant.

Ordóñez is a tremendous creative force who continues to innovate, producing exceptional Spanish wines which are authentic, yet in line with modern taste sensibilities. His wines have earned a place alongside the fine wines of Europe and America.

We began by sampling Cava sparkling wine as Jack provided information on Spanish appellations, topography, grape varietals, styles and food pairings. We moved through clean and crisp white wines made from Verdejo, Albariño and Godello and even a surprisingly versatile dry Muscat, which would pair well with sushi and various fish dishes. In fact, all the white wines were very food-friendly and paired nicely with the scallops, flat bread and herb-roasted potatoes, which were served as a prelude to the meal.

The photos of the vineyards were mesmerizing and it’s hard to believe vines can survive such difficult conditions. Most people don’t realize that Spain is a very mountainous country with an average elevation of almost 2000 feet. Most areas are also very dry, receiving minimal rainfall. This is essentially a high desert environment with arid soil, harsh conditions and huge fluctuations in temperature. For those in California, imagine growing wine in Joshua Tree! We saw vineyards blanketed in snow in the winter and gnarly old vines, some which were planted in the late 1800s, and have survived the scourge of phylloxera. We saw a myriad of soil types including sand, granite and limestone. The low-yielding vines produce grapes of great depth and concentration.

As we moved into red wines, it was great to rediscover old favorites and try new wines. From inexpensive Grenache, Tempranillo, Graciano and Monastrell to higher-priced and higher quality versions, it was great to try them all. There is no better way to learn the wines and be able to assist customers at the store. Some of the wines were remarkable with the filet mignon, creating that perfect union of flavors where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. The delicious wines kept on coming including names such as Volver, Breca, Tarima Hill, Triga, Vatan, Tres Picos, Ramirez de la Piscina, Muga and more.

Finally, we enjoyed two delicious dessert wines, which were quite different from each other. The Bodegas y Vinedos Botani Victoria #2 100% Moscatel de Alexandria was light on its feet, due to the balancing acidity. It went beautifully with the Sticky Toffee Pudding and was also excellent paired with blue cheese crumbles! Lastly, we savored the Alvear PX Sherry 1927, which was phenomenal on its own.

As you can see, it was a very enjoyable and productive night. How can you beat great food, company and wine in an informal yet informative setting? Thank you to Jack and John for the information and their efforts. Very nicely done and as I said, it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it!

Featured Wines:

Muga 2005 Prado Enea Gran Reserva $49.98 [301523]

Muga 2010 Reserva $23.98 [379330]

Bodegas Volver 2012 Triga $34.99 [382919]

Borsao 2012 Tres Picos $12.99 [306230]

Bodegas Jorge Ordóñez S. L. 2012
Vatan Tinto De Toro $34.98 [382655]

Breca 2012 Garnacha $13.98 [380258]

Alto Moncayo 2012 Veraton $24.99 [378524]

Bodegas Ordóñez 2011 Zerran [381005]

The Golden Palate Competition is Back!

The Return of The Golden Palate!
by Tobin Sharp
Last year, we tried a new series at our wine bar-- one that pitted our wine staff members against each other in a 'cage match' kind of wine competition, one we call The Golden Palate. In this competition, our wine staffers each select 5 wines from a preset price range ( 1st round includes wine under $20, 2nd round includes wines under $50, 3rd round includes wines under $100, the final didn't have a price range) and the wine bar customers, who don't know which staffer picked which bottles, votes for their favorite wines. Whomever gathers the most votes, moves forward. The "2nd place winner" goes home (sometimes in tears).
 
In last year's finale, in an 'Anakin Skywalker v. Obi Wan Kenobi' showdown, Zach "Le Champignon" Korhonen bested Dan Williams in a tightly contested round (with incredible wines!).

Our first match of the new year took place last Friday (2/20), pitting Gabe Barakat against Veronica Castro.
 
Here are the top vote-getting wines, and who picked them:
1. Pago Florentino 2010 Tempranillo (Veronica)
2. & 3. (tie) (both from Gabe)
• Bohigas Brut Reserva Cava
• Tarima Hill 2012 100% Monastrell
 
Even though Veronica chose the most popular wine of the night, it was Gabe Barakat who emerged victorious!

Here's the full list in the order served:

1. Bohigas Brut Reserva Cava

2. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noir

3. Cantina Terlano 2013 Pinot Grigio

4. Charles Smith 2013 Riesling "Kung Fu Girl"

5. Matthieu Barret 2013 Côte du Rhône Petit Ours Brun

6. Pago Florentino 2010 Tempranillo

7. Freakshow 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon

8. Bodegas Aragonesas 2012 Coto De Hayas

9. Tarima Hill 2012 100% Monastrell

10. Ancient Peaks 2012 Proprietary Red "Renegade"

Coming up in April!
Todd v. Michael
Zach v. Beate

As always, check our Wine Bar page to find out the schedule!

2015 Bracket