A 96 Point No-brainer from Some of the Oldest Vines in the World!

CIRILLO GRENACHE 

by Gary Faust

Wow, those are gnarly, old Grenache vines! We are excited to introduce our newest discovery, Cirillo wines, which are appearing for the first time in the country. This new discovery perfectly illustrates the benefit and joy of being an independent retailer. Being able to taste unique, small production wines and bring them into the store to share with our customers is something we really love to do. Of course, we wouldn’t bring them in if we didn’t think they tasted great. In this case, the old vine Grenache yields wines of uncommon elegance and grace, displaying an almost Pinot-like ethereal quality.

The Cirillo family are custodians of what it is believed to be the oldest continuously producing Grenache and Semillon vineyards in the world. Planted in 1848, these vines are not only a part of the Barossa history, but Australia’s winemaking heritage. That is a long time ago! To put it into perspective, the California Gold Rush, when the precious metal was discovered at Sutter’s Mill, took place the same year these vines were planted. The Cirillo’s winemaking heritage spans back over 9 generations to the Southern Italian province of Calabria.

The vineyard sits on what was an old inland lake over 100 Million years ago. The soil is deep silt sand over limestone and clay. This combination of free-draining topsoil and water-holding subsoil has sustained the 7 acres of grenache.

The gnarled and wizened basket pruned bush Grenache vines stand up to 6 feet high and nearly 6 feet wide. For these vines to survive at this age, they need constant attention through-out the year. Owner and Winemaker Marco Cirillo spends every spare moment training, pruning and nurturing each vine through its fragile life. The result is fruit with incredible intensity and old vine richness not often seen.

During primary fermentation the wine is hand tended 2 to 4 times per day. Once the ferment is complete it is carefully transferred into an 800kg basket press which will then allow intimate control of the tannin, fruit and overall structure of the wine. It is then stored in seasoned 60% French and 40% American oak hogsheads for up to 24 months.

Most of the grapes from these ancient vines are sold to the great Australian producer, Torbreck, leaving only a small portion for Cirillo to craft into these wines. These wines produced from gnarled and wizened trunks are something to be treasured and enjoyed.


CIRILLO 2014 THE VINCENT GRENACHE $29.98 [381616]
Medium ruby in color. Red fruits, Eucalypt and mint, grilled herbs and cedar aromas greet the nose. Medium –bodied with nice acidity, the wine is fresh with flavors of forest berry fruit, leather, sweet tobacco, clove. There is no drop off in flavor from beginning to end. Easy to like with a long finish.

JAMES SUCKLING 96 POINTS - "From 80-year-old vines this has a very attractive nose with plenty of wild raspberry perfume and a hint of some darker purple fruits, lightly herbal, really pure and assertive. The palate has a beautifully complete and silky texture with a long and sustained core of fine yet strong tannin; great depth and detail, finishes strong, fresh and on point."
  

 CIRILLO 2010 1850 GRENACHE $74.98 [381827]
Medium ruby fading to a garnet edge. The nose is very complex with dusty cherry, strawberry, vanilla, sassafras, sweet tobacco, and savory meaty notes. On the palate this wine is medium-bodied with silky tannins and a Pinot-like ethereal quality. There is a subtle intensity to the currant and cherry flavors, olive and vanilla. Again the savory notions of umami and meaty notes are fantastic. The finish is very long. This a wine to ponder and enjoy the nuanced filled deliciousness.

A Fabulous One and Only Champagne: Moutard Arbanne

by Jim Duane

MOUTARD 2008 CEPAGE ARBANNE VIEILLES VIGNES $79.98 [377623]

While researching our recent profile of the L. Aubry Fils “Le Nombre D’Or Campaneae Veteres Vites" which features four grapes (Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Fromemteau and Pinot Blanc) that were all but wiped out by the 19th Century phylloxera plague in Champagne, we came upon mention of a Champagne by Moutard that was made entirely from Arbanne. Arbanne is a fascinating varietal not unlike Grüner Veltliner and it has a long history of cultivation in the southern part of the Champagne region but its present plantings total a mere five acres.

The Moutard-Deligent family have been growers in Buxeuil, situated just southeast of Troyes in the Côte des Bar, since 1642. The family started making their own Champagne in 1927 and today they farm 52 acres of vines. Most of their plantings are to Pinot Noir but they do have a number of plots of “heirloom” grape varietals like Arbanne. Learning that the family’s “Cepage Arbanne” was the only one of its type produced today really piqued our interest and we immediately scrambled to get our hands on some. As luck would have it, we scored the last two cases from the importer. This 2008 was made from 60-year-old vines, fermented entirely in stainless steel and was aged four years on the lees before being disgorged in January of 2014. Thought-provoking and compelling, this Moutard is like no sparkler we have had, as it exhibits an exotic flavor profile that is somewhat akin to Vouvray combined with the structure and delineation that could only spring from Champagne. At first whiff, notes of Polenta emerge followed by fragrances of white flowers, quince and damp chalk. Its dense yet sleek Chenin-Blanc-like fruit (think Bosc pears) makes a pleasing initial impression and is quickly elaborated with hints of river stones and key lime while its racy finish morphs to deliver enduring red grapefruit impressions. As we sipped this fascinating bubbly we couldn’t help but wonder how much more diverse and interesting Champagne would be if the region’s heirloom grapes were in wider production. Limited.